X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com X-SpamCatcher-Score: 2 [X] Return-Path: Received: from imo-d05.mx.aol.com ([205.188.157.37] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 5.1.9) with ESMTP id 2062152 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Tue, 22 May 2007 21:23:11 -0400 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=205.188.157.37; envelope-from=Lehanover@aol.com Received: from Lehanover@aol.com by imo-d05.mx.aol.com (mail_out_v38_r9.2.) id q.d34.9be0d1f (43933) for ; Tue, 22 May 2007 21:22:27 -0400 (EDT) From: Lehanover@aol.com Message-ID: Date: Tue, 22 May 2007 21:22:26 EDT Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: 2-cycle oil mix To: flyrotary@lancaironline.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="-----------------------------1179883346" X-Mailer: 9.0 Security Edition for Windows sub 5366 X-Spam-Flag: NO -------------------------------1179883346 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Content-Language: en =20 In a message dated 5/22/2007 6:39:25 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, =20 wrjjrs@aol.com writes: I=E2=80=99m running Castrol 20-50, which is a great lubricating oil, but a= pparently=20 it doesn=E2=80=99t burn real well. =20 Al I believe that Castrol invented multigrade oils. =20 Mutigrades have long chain polymers (plastics) that link up with temperatur= e=20 increases to change the pour speed of an oil. So 20 weight oil is doctored=20 with additives to make it pour, or, act like a thicker oil at operating =20 temperature. So, the 20 in 20-50 is the base oils actual pour speed or weigh= t. So=20 its 20 weight oil but now not all of it is oil. Some of it is plastic that =20 neither lubricates or burns well. So you get a gummy mess when you burn it,=20= and =20 even when you overheat it in the combustion chamber, and you get stuck apex=20= =20 seals after a long sit still. So, if you can still get an OMP adapter off of= =20 Richard Sohn or Tracy, use that and run a multi grade in the sump, or a good= =20 synthetic straight weight. And run a good 2 cycle oil in the OMP. No adaptor= s =20 available?=20 =20 Drill into the front cover at the lateral oil gallery to the OMP. Weld on a=20= =20 dash 4 male. Drill into the gallery next to the new fitting and TIG the=20 gallery closed to engine oil. Connect a dash 4 line to the new fitting and=20= run it=20 to a bottle of 2 cycle oil on the fire wall. =20 =20 Clean burning oil and a clean engine and prop. =20 A name brand synthetic straight weight in the sump should be 30 weight up t= o=20 220 degrees. Then 40 weight up to 240 degrees. Another advantage of a full synthetic is =20 it has much less drag than dyno oil for any weight. It moves easy when cold=20= and=20 can be run colder than a dyno oil of the same weight. Over heated synthetic= s=20 are still oil when they cool off. Multi grade dyno oil becomes black snot.=20 =20 Premixing 2 cycle oil into the fuel is the best for brutal engine use, but =20 is a pain in the rear. =20 Nobody goes over 10,000 RPM on dyno oil.=20 =20 Lynn E. Hanover=20 ************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com= . -------------------------------1179883346 Content-Type: text/html; charset="UTF-8" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Content-Language: en
In a message dated 5/22/2007 6:39:25 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,=20 wrjjrs@aol.com writes:
<= FONT=20 style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=3DVerdana color=3D#000000 siz= e=3D2>
I=E2=80=99m<= /SPAN> running=20 Castrol 20-50, which is a great lubricating oil, but=20 apparently it doesn=E2=80=99t bu= rn real=20 well.
 
Al
I believe that Castrol invented multigrade oils.
 
Mutigrades have long chain polymers (plastics) that link up with=20 temperature increases to change the pour speed of an oil. So 20 weight oil i= s=20 doctored with additives to make it pour, or, act like a thicker oil at opera= ting=20 temperature. So, the 20 in 20-50 is the base oils actual pour speed or weigh= t.=20 So its 20 weight oil but now not all of it is oil. Some of it is plastic tha= t=20 neither lubricates or burns well. So you get a gummy mess when you burn it,=20= and=20 even when you overheat it in the combustion chamber, and you get stuck apex=20 seals after a long sit still. So, if you can still get an OMP adapter off of= =20 Richard Sohn or Tracy, use that and run a multi grade in the sump, or a good= =20 synthetic straight weight. And run a good 2 cycle oil in the OMP. No adaptor= s=20 available?
 
Drill into the front cover at the lateral oil gallery to the OMP. Weld=20= on a=20 dash 4 male. Drill into the gallery next to the new fitting and TIG the gall= ery=20 closed to engine oil. Connect a dash 4 line to the new fitting and run it to= a=20 bottle of 2 cycle oil on the fire wall.  
 
Clean burning oil and a clean engine and prop.
 
A name brand synthetic straight weight in the sump should be 30 weight=20= up=20 to 220 degrees.
Then 40 weight up to 240 degrees. Another advantage of a full synthetic= is=20 it has much less drag than dyno oil for any weight. It moves easy when cold=20= and=20 can be run colder than a dyno oil of the same weight. Over heated synthetics= are=20 still oil when they cool off. Multi grade dyno oil becomes black snot.
 
Premixing 2 cycle oil into the fuel is the best for brutal engine use,=20= but=20 is a pain in the rear.
 
Nobody goes over 10,000 RPM on dyno oil.
 
Lynn E. Hanover 



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