X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com X-SpamCatcher-Score: 1 [X] Return-Path: Received: from smtp110.sbc.mail.re2.yahoo.com ([68.142.229.95] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 5.1.4) with SMTP id 1725072 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Fri, 29 Dec 2006 21:39:29 -0500 Received-SPF: none receiver=logan.com; client-ip=68.142.229.95; envelope-from=downing.j@sbcglobal.net Received: (qmail 30496 invoked from network); 30 Dec 2006 02:38:43 -0000 DomainKey-Signature: a=rsa-sha1; q=dns; c=nofws; s=s1024; d=sbcglobal.net; h=Received:X-YMail-OSG:Message-ID:From:To:References:Subject:Date:MIME-Version:Content-Type:X-Priority:X-MSMail-Priority:X-Mailer:X-MimeOLE; b=cF8xokWtf8n78zcSu/ZMMQYdeUeZ1afq0WulKh2I7fUqrwB6Bs9sYI4tNLXUb1draPBH0s4LOUiFktNrDy7zCCEo/qS9YN3lksW2pgy9vRNhbaTxHGf/FkcWULFrJmOI9Ew0WIkNywpMvg7ENi61n9iO9mPzbQ0fFP5HvBpxAQQ= ; Received: from unknown (HELO mom) (downing.j@sbcglobal.net@75.41.6.91 with login) by smtp110.sbc.mail.re2.yahoo.com with SMTP; 30 Dec 2006 02:38:42 -0000 X-YMail-OSG: m0EfnvQVM1kWw8JrnkYf5oHN7KQQqlUESojUxsUDGbifUp63hneFlzeEeKvqTjowTFL2QYWRTad_povJu6VatxTnvgzQwvuElkHoegXzlu4vjch4Ag07j8JVj1Au1BkMywbiGo0l49AHnaM- Message-ID: <003101c72bbc$811c25a0$4001a8c0@gateway.2wire.net> From: "John Downing" To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" References: Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: Yet another limp home story Date: Fri, 29 Dec 2006 21:44:55 -0500 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_002E_01C72B92.9447C6E0" X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 6.00.2800.1409 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2800.1409 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_002E_01C72B92.9447C6E0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Jim; That is the way I fabricated the fuel tank for my Wittman = Tailwind. I riveted in the flanged baffles and welded around the = outside rivet heads to seal them. The end pieces and baffle = (5/8"flange), I formed a 3/8" flange that fit inside the tank sides, = this I did on a wooden form of 3/4" high density particle board. = Before flanging was done, the ends were beaded with a 1/2" bead = diagonal from corner to corner, to stiffen. Then I pressure tested with = 2 psi and soapy water, had one minute hole to fix. JohnD ----- Original Message -----=20 From: James Maher=20 To: Rotary motors in aircraft=20 Sent: Friday, December 29, 2006 6:30 PM Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Yet another limp home story Ernest, I have been considering several ways to build the tank from alum = sheet. I think that I have settled on the following design: A one piece sheet that starts at the top front and goes down from = there to the front bottom, then back along the frame, then up towards the vert fin, then back to = the top front with a flange to weld the sheet at the top front. This will allow the insertion of flanged baffles just as in the F.G. = tank that can be welded in and then flanged end caps can be welded in to = seal the tank on the sides. This method would have one weld along the top front and then around = each side plate. Of coarse there will also be a sump in the bottom of the tank just as = I have in the F.G. tank. I am not going to glass mine in as I don't perceive much of an air = load that far back and the T.back is quite stiff with the rounded = corners. Larry's is not glassed in. Also I'll want to strap the fuel tank to the frame to prevent any = movement. I'm not sure how you would be able to include the baffles with your = method unless you were not going to attach them to the top, but you have = probably already figured it out. Keep me posted with your results. Jim Ernest Christley wrote: Jim, I'm definitely going aluminum. I'm working on building a form=20 right now, in the exact way that you built it for the glass layup.=20 I'll lay a sheet of metal around it and beat in a 1/4" flange. = Another=20 sheet will wrap up from one side, across the top and down the other, = cut=20 to shape and one long edge weld all the way around. When I layup the = turtleback, I'll set the tank in place, run a fillet of flox around = the=20 weld, then glass the weld in with about 40oz of glass tapes. There = will=20 only be a small amount of volume lost to empty space, and the load = path=20 won't change. I think it's as true to the plans as one can get = without=20 having a glass tank. ------=_NextPart_000_002E_01C72B92.9447C6E0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Jim;  That is the way I fabricated = the fuel=20 tank for my Wittman Tailwind.  I riveted in the flanged baffles and = welded=20 around the outside rivet heads to seal them.  The end pieces and = baffle=20 (5/8"flange), I formed a 3/8" flange that fit inside the tank = sides, this I=20 did on a wooden form of 3/4" high density particle=20 board.   Before flanging was done,  the ends = were=20 beaded with a 1/2" bead diagonal from corner to corner, to = stiffen. Then I=20 pressure tested with 2 psi and soapy water, had one minute hole to = fix. =20 JohnD
----- Original Message -----
From:=20 James=20 Maher
Sent: Friday, December 29, 2006 = 6:30=20 PM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Yet = another limp=20 home story

Ernest,
I have been considering several ways to build the tank from alum=20 sheet.
I think that I have settled on the following design:
A one piece sheet that starts at the top front and goes down from = there=20 to the front bottom,
then back along the frame, then up towards the vert fin, then = back to the=20 top front with a flange to weld the sheet at the top front.
This will allow the insertion of flanged baffles just as in the = F.G.=20 tank that can be welded in and then flanged end caps can be = welded=20 in to seal the tank on the sides.
This method would have one weld along the top front and then = around each=20 side plate.
Of coarse there will also be a sump in the bottom of the tank = just as I=20 have in the F.G. tank.
I am not going to glass mine in as I don't perceive much of an=20 air load that far back and the T.back is quite stiff with the = rounded=20 corners. Larry's is not glassed in.
Also I'll want to strap the fuel tank to the frame to prevent any = movement.
 
I'm not sure how you would be able to include the baffles with = your=20 method unless you were not going to attach them to the top, but you = have=20 probably already figured it out.
Keep me posted with your results.
Jim

Ernest Christley <echristley@nc.rr.com>=20 wrote:
Jim,=20 I'm definitely going aluminum. I'm working on building a form =
right now,=20 in the exact way that you built it for the glass layup.
I'll lay = a sheet=20 of metal around it and beat in a 1/4" flange. Another
sheet will = wrap up=20 from one side, across the top and down the other, cut
to shape = and one=20 long edge weld all the way around. When I layup the
turtleback, = I'll set=20 the tank in place, run a fillet of flox around the
weld, then = glass the=20 weld in with about 40oz of glass tapes. There will
only be a = small=20 amount of volume lost to empty space, and the load path
won't = change. I=20 think it's as true to the plans as one can get without
having a = glass=20 tank.

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