Received-SPF: none
 receiver=logan.com; client-ip=68.142.199.85; envelope-from=deltaflyer@prodigy.net
DomainKey-Signature: a=rsa-sha1; q=dns; c=nofws;
  s=s1024; d=prodigy.net;
  h=X-YMail-OSG:Received:Date:From:Subject:To:In-Reply-To:MIME-Version:Content-Type:Content-Transfer-Encoding:Message-ID;
  b=oxoBDIhsG7Q3ILByOtwPiEtwLW4WfSfb+IcG1R+P7+uq2sd/O5VXhfAap5o1ikfd1wntuYB0biKDfsoEh0dPNLmf56mFNyOUBTcBk6bHeAqzYuG3bpR/yzg0AyuSYPrNJr74Kt+7ZR4IFHeRD26j0qvfS2tnlRkcD8v0TvlYx9M=;
Date: Fri, 29 Dec 2006 15:30:41 -0800 (PST)
From: James Maher <deltaflyer@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: Yet another limp home story
To: Rotary motors in aircraft <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
In-Reply-To: <list-1724783@logan.com>
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="0-183537247-1167435041=:44823"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit
Message-ID: <692616.44823.qm@web81005.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

--0-183537247-1167435041=:44823
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit

Ernest,
  I have been considering several ways to build the tank from alum sheet.
  I think that I have settled on the following design:
  A one piece sheet that starts at the top front and goes down from there to the front bottom,
  then back along the frame, then up towards the vert fin, then back to the top front with a flange to weld the sheet at the top front.
  This will allow the insertion of flanged baffles just as in the F.G. tank that can be welded in and then flanged end caps can be welded in to seal the tank on the sides.
  This method would have one weld along the top front and then around each side plate.
  Of coarse there will also be a sump in the bottom of the tank just as I have in the F.G. tank.
  I am not going to glass mine in as I don't perceive much of an air load that far back and the T.back is quite stiff with the rounded corners. Larry's is not glassed in.
  Also I'll want to strap the fuel tank to the frame to prevent any movement.
   
  I'm not sure how you would be able to include the baffles with your method unless you were not going to attach them to the top, but you have probably already figured it out.
  Keep me posted with your results.
Jim
  
Ernest Christley <echristley@nc.rr.com> wrote:
  Jim, I'm definitely going aluminum. I'm working on building a form 
right now, in the exact way that you built it for the glass layup. 
I'll lay a sheet of metal around it and beat in a 1/4" flange. Another 
sheet will wrap up from one side, across the top and down the other, cut 
to shape and one long edge weld all the way around. When I layup the 
turtleback, I'll set the tank in place, run a fillet of flox around the 
weld, then glass the weld in with about 40oz of glass tapes. There will 
only be a small amount of volume lost to empty space, and the load path 
won't change. I think it's as true to the plans as one can get without 
having a glass tank.


--0-183537247-1167435041=:44823
Content-Type: text/html; charset=iso-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit

<div>Ernest,</div>  <div>I have been considering several ways to build the tank from alum sheet.</div>  <div>I think that I have settled on the following&nbsp;design:</div>  <div>A one piece sheet that starts at the top front and goes down from there to the front bottom,</div>  <div>then back along the frame, then up towards the vert fin, then back to the top front with a flange to weld the sheet at the top front.</div>  <div>This will allow the insertion of flanged baffles just as in the F.G. tank&nbsp;that can be welded in and then flanged end caps can be welded in&nbsp;to seal the tank on the sides.</div>  <div>This method would have one weld along the top front and then around each side plate.</div>  <div>Of coarse there will also be a sump in the bottom of the tank just as I have in the F.G. tank.</div>  <div>I am not going to glass mine in as I don't perceive much of an air&nbsp;load that far back and the T.back is quite stiff with the rounded corners. Larry's is not
 glassed in.</div>  <div>Also I'll want to strap the fuel tank to the frame to prevent any movement.</div>  <div>&nbsp;</div>  <div>I'm not sure how you would be able to include the baffles with your method unless you were not going to attach them to the top, but you have probably already figured&nbsp;it out.</div>  <div>Keep me posted with your results.<BR>Jim</div>  <div><BR><B><I>Ernest Christley &lt;echristley@nc.rr.com&gt;</I></B> wrote:</div>  <BLOCKQUOTE class=replbq style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px solid">Jim, I'm definitely going aluminum. I'm working on building a form <BR>right now, in the exact way that you built it for the glass layup. <BR>I'll lay a sheet of metal around it and beat in a 1/4" flange. Another <BR>sheet will wrap up from one side, across the top and down the other, cut <BR>to shape and one long edge weld all the way around. When I layup the <BR>turtleback, I'll set the tank in place, run a fillet of flox
 around the <BR>weld, then glass the weld in with about 40oz of glass tapes. There will <BR>only be a small amount of volume lost to empty space, and the load path <BR>won't change. I think it's as true to the plans as one can get without <BR>having a glass tank.<BR><BR></BLOCKQUOTE>
--0-183537247-1167435041=:44823--