X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com Return-Path: Received: from imo-d23.mx.aol.com ([205.188.139.137] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 5.1c.2) with ESMTP id 1239467 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Mon, 17 Jul 2006 00:25:02 -0400 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=205.188.139.137; envelope-from=Lehanover@aol.com Received: from Lehanover@aol.com by imo-d23.mx.aol.com (mail_out_v38_r7.5.) id q.57c.1404c29 (48600) for ; Mon, 17 Jul 2006 00:24:11 -0400 (EDT) From: Lehanover@aol.com Message-ID: <57c.1404c29.31ec6aeb@aol.com> Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2006 00:24:11 EDT Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: damage report To: flyrotary@lancaironline.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="-----------------------------1153110251" X-Mailer: 9.0 Security Edition for Windows sub 5319 X-Spam-Flag: NO -------------------------------1153110251 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 7/16/2006 10:55:24 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, wgeslick@gmail.com writes: Now a question about oil pressure for the group. Since I removed the balls and springs from the rotor jets and have stock jets, here are my oil pressure readings. Somebody let me know if this looks like enough flow. Cruising at 5350 RPM, Oil Temp Oil Pressure 160 86 195 75 201 70 and at idle RPM with Oil Temp at 170, RPM Oil Pressure 1250 19 2000 37 -- Bill Eslick _www.weslick.com/RV6Index.htm_ (http://www.weslick.com/RV6Index.htm) This is a popular change that the street racers do. Then they add the racing rear iron relief valve (115 PSI) trying to get the idle oil pressure back up. Of course it doesn't work. The ball and springs are used to promote quick warm-up by eliminating cooling (cold oil) going to the rotors. So once the engine warms up a bit and idle speed comes up above a fast idle the balls lift off the seats due to centrifugal force and cooling oil flows to the rotors. As you have noticed, the faster idle speed seems to help the low oil pressure. (More oil volume through the same orifice size equals higher pressure) So you can suffer the indignity of too fast an idle and worn brake pucks, or the more worrisome lower oil pressure. Fortunately the main and rotor bearings have a huge surface area and are barely loaded at idle and just off idle. So as long as there is evidence of pressure at all, there is no problem. Years ago we raced on the stock oil pump, and turned up 9,000 RPM on 70 PSI of oil pressure. The bearings always looked like new on teardown. Now we use an external pump and have 82 PSI at idle (2,200 RPM) and 100 PSI above idle to 9,600 RPM. This is with no balls or springs and a Weber 180 main jet replacing the ball. The bearings always look as new at teardown. The only real problem is that hair on the back of your neck standing up when you look at the gage. Not a problem. Lynn E. Hanover -------------------------------1153110251 Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

In a message dated 7/16/2006 10:55:24 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,=20 wgeslick@gmail.com writes:

<= FONT=20 style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=3DArial color=3D#000000 size= =3D2>

Now a question about oil pressure for the group. Since I remove= d=20 the balls and springs from the rotor jets and have stock jets, here are my= oil=20 pressure readings. Somebody let me know if this looks like enough fl= ow.=20

Cruising at 5350 RPM,

Oil Temp Oil Pressure

160 = =20 86

195 = =20 75

201 = =20 70

and at idle RPM with Oil Temp at 170,

RPM Oil Pressure

1250 = ; =20 19

2000 = ; 37

--
Bill Eslick
www.weslick.com/RV6Index.htm<= /A>=20

This is a popular change that the street racers do. Then they add the=20 racing rear iron relief valve (115 PSI) trying to get the idle oil pressure=20= back=20 up. Of course it doesn't work.

The ball and springs are used to promote quick warm-up by eliminating=20 cooling (cold oil) going to the rotors. So once the engine warms up a bit an= d=20 idle speed comes up above a fast idle the balls lift off the seats due to=20 centrifugal force and cooling oil flows to the rotors.

As you have noticed, the faster idle speed seems to help the low oil=20 pressure. (More oil volume through the same orifice size equals higher=20 pressure) So you can suffer the indignity of too fast an idle and worn=20 brake pucks, or the more worrisome lower oil pressure.

Fortunately the main and rotor bearings have a huge surface area and=20 are barely loaded at idle and just off idle. So as long as there is=20 evidence of pressure at all, there is no problem.

Years ago we raced on the stock oil pump, and turned up 9,000 RPM on 70= PSI=20 of oil pressure. The bearings always looked like new on teardown. Now we use= an=20 external pump and have 82 PSI at idle (2,200 RPM) and 100 PSI above idle to=20 9,600 RPM. This is with no balls or springs and a Weber 180 main jet replaci= ng=20 the ball. The bearings always look as new at teardown.

The only real problem is that hair on the back of your neck standing up= =20 when you look at the gage. Not a problem.

Lynn E. Hanover

-------------------------------1153110251--