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Finn,
Block work is bricking is difficult to master. Drive around some construction sites and find a couple of those "illegals" on the job and offer them cash money for your small project. It will be done in an afternoon and shouldn't cost more than what you will pay for all the form materials to pour the columns.
Dave
-------------- Original message --------------
From: Finn Lassen <finn.lassen@verizon.net>
> This is only remotely related to rotaries (home of my future
> rotary-powered RV-4) so please reply off-list.
>
> After having worked for three weekends putting up block and only having
> done 1 1/2 corners out of 3 so far, I'm seriously considering building
> forms and having the 9 16x16" columns poured rather that building them
> up with 16x16" column blocks.
>
> If anybody here on the list are familiar with making concrete forms, I
> sure could use some advice.
> Columns will be 8' 8" tall and will be supporting 10' long 8x8" lintels
> with a row of lintel blocks on top.
>
> How thick does the plywood have to be to handle a 8'8" tall 16x16"
> column of concrete?
>
> I'm
considering using my future 2x4 or 2x6 frame wall studs to form the
> outside corners of the forms - two along each corner of the form screwed
> together (8 per form).
>
> Another issue is the option of tapering the columns: 16x16 at bottom
> tapering to 8x16" at top. In my mind that would not change the structual
> strength of the columns; would save concrete (25%) and possibly require
> less hefty plywood.
>
> I sure could use some advice on both counts.
>
> Keywords here are "cheaper" and "easier".
>
> 16x16" column blocks are now $3.21 a piece - 13 per column.
> The extra concrete to replace one block is about $2.60 (or $1.95 if
> tapering the columns).
> So I'd mainly just be paying for the plywood for the forms - seems
> worthwhile compared to the work of "stacking" the 117 column blocks.
> Ideally the forms would also be able to support the lintels an
d lintel
> blocks so everything could be poured in one go.
>
> Finn
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