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From: Buly <atlasyts@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: Fire Detector Unit
Date: Mon, 27 Feb 2006 10:32:41 -0500
To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>

Thanks for your effort Mark. Keep us informed.
Buly
http://tinyurl.com/dcy36


On Feb 27, 2006, at 9:46 AM, Mark R Steitle wrote:

> If Acroname.com has the inventory on hand (no reason to think
> otherwise), it looks to be a good source for the UVTRON fire detectors
> and circuit boards.  The question is can it run a good sized LED  
> without
> needing a relay board.  Output is 50v, so that would have to be dealt
> with (following Ed's recommendations).  So, it appears that a relay
> board won't be necessary unless you're planning on using a landing  
> light
> as a warning indicator.  The C3704 is rated for 10 - 30 volts  
> input, so
> that eliminates the need for the voltage converter board.  They  
> have two
> other models if you need a different input voltage.  The board would
> need to be mounted in a project box (readily available at Frye's)  
> with a
> window cut for the UVTRON to look through.  I used nylon screws  
> from the
> Home Depot avionics department to mount the board.
>
> From the picture on the Acroname web site, it doesn't appear that the
> board is protective coated.  IMHO, this should be done to improve
> longevity and reliability.  The coating should be available from a
> number of electronics suppliers, or use something like epoxy resin or
> E6000.
>
> One other caution, the UVtron operates at 350v, so be careful handling
> it while it is powered up.
>
> All in all, it appears the single-board solution would be a more  
> elegant
> solution, but would require some experimenting to get it to do what we
> want.  We know that the 3-board solution works as is.  So, its up to
> each to determine which option suits your needs.
>
> Since Bob Darrah had indicated he was interested in this item, he's
> agreed to order one of the boards and we will test it out to see if it
> will power an LED, and what additional components it needs to make  
> that
> happen.  I will report back to the group with the good, the bad and  
> the
> ugly.
>
> Mark
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rotary motors in aircraft  
> [mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net] On
> Behalf Of Chad Robinson
> Sent: Saturday, February 25, 2006 6:05 AM
> To: Rotary motors in aircraft
> Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Fire Detector Unit
>
> Tracy Hallock wrote:
>>
>> After seeing Mark's demonstration, I was pretty impressed, so I did a
>> search on the internet for similar products.  The link below looked
>> promising:
>>
>> http://www.georgejenson.com/rv7.php
>>
>> They include a board and the detector for $72.  Unfortunately, I am
> too
>> far off from needing this yet, but someone else might like to
> experiment.
>
> Tracy, did you mean to include this link as opposed to the one above?
> http://www.acroname.com/robotics/parts/R67-UVTRON.html
>
> This is a good way to go if you're serious about using this  
> detector. It
> runs
> on 10-30VDC, and you can get a project box from Radio Shack for a few
> bucks
> that will fit it.
>
> Note that if you want to use this, you will need some way to indicate
> its
> output. A good way would be a 12V relay, light, and buzzer, also from
> Radio
> Shack. You'd hook the relay to "output pin 3 - Open Collector Output",
> and use
> it to drive the indicator light (or LED) and the buzzer. Make sure the
> coil
> rating of the relay you get doesn't exceed 100mA at 12V (coil  
> resistance
> 120
> ohms max).
>
> Finally, the output of this thing is a very short pulse. The spec  
> sheet
> for
> the driver circuit says you can add a capacitor at a spot on the  
> circuit
>
> board. Again, Radio Shack sells capacitors. A 1uF value across the Cx
> terminals will make the output pulse for 1 second at a time. Don't
> forget to
> jumper the "background cancel level" terminals, too. Looks like you'd
> want to
> use position 3 - they label this "general use". You can experiment  
> with
> a
> different slot if it's falsely triggering.
>
> Sounds like a lot of hookup work, but you could probably do it (minus
> wiring
> and installing it) in 20 minutes. I'm just trying to be detailed. =)
>
>
> --
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