X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com Return-Path: Received: from [129.116.87.143] (HELO MAIL01.austin.utexas.edu) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 5.0.8) with ESMTP id 999780 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Mon, 27 Feb 2006 09:47:17 -0500 Received-SPF: none receiver=logan.com; client-ip=129.116.87.143; envelope-from=mark.steitle@austin.utexas.edu X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft Exchange V6.5 Content-class: urn:content-classes:message MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Subject: RE: [FlyRotary] Re: Fire Detector Unit Date: Mon, 27 Feb 2006 08:46:30 -0600 Message-ID: <87DBA06C9A5CB84B80439BA09D86E69E03D05830@MAIL01.austin.utexas.edu> X-MS-Has-Attach: X-MS-TNEF-Correlator: Thread-Topic: [FlyRotary] Re: Fire Detector Unit Thread-Index: AcY6A9RbKjtPaB8LS0iIpLAM16gkvQBoV5Lg From: "Mark R Steitle" To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" If Acroname.com has the inventory on hand (no reason to think otherwise), it looks to be a good source for the UVTRON fire detectors and circuit boards. The question is can it run a good sized LED without needing a relay board. Output is 50v, so that would have to be dealt with (following Ed's recommendations). So, it appears that a relay board won't be necessary unless you're planning on using a landing light as a warning indicator. The C3704 is rated for 10 - 30 volts input, so that eliminates the need for the voltage converter board. They have two other models if you need a different input voltage. The board would need to be mounted in a project box (readily available at Frye's) with a window cut for the UVTRON to look through. I used nylon screws from the Home Depot avionics department to mount the board.=20 From the picture on the Acroname web site, it doesn't appear that the board is protective coated. IMHO, this should be done to improve longevity and reliability. The coating should be available from a number of electronics suppliers, or use something like epoxy resin or E6000. =20 One other caution, the UVtron operates at 350v, so be careful handling it while it is powered up. All in all, it appears the single-board solution would be a more elegant solution, but would require some experimenting to get it to do what we want. We know that the 3-board solution works as is. So, its up to each to determine which option suits your needs. Since Bob Darrah had indicated he was interested in this item, he's agreed to order one of the boards and we will test it out to see if it will power an LED, and what additional components it needs to make that happen. I will report back to the group with the good, the bad and the ugly. =20 Mark =20 -----Original Message----- From: Rotary motors in aircraft [mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net] On Behalf Of Chad Robinson Sent: Saturday, February 25, 2006 6:05 AM To: Rotary motors in aircraft Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Fire Detector Unit Tracy Hallock wrote: >=20 > After seeing Mark's demonstration, I was pretty impressed, so I did a=20 > search on the internet for similar products. The link below looked=20 > promising: > =20 > http://www.georgejenson.com/rv7.php > =20 > They include a board and the detector for $72. Unfortunately, I am too=20 > far off from needing this yet, but someone else might like to experiment. Tracy, did you mean to include this link as opposed to the one above? http://www.acroname.com/robotics/parts/R67-UVTRON.html This is a good way to go if you're serious about using this detector. It runs=20 on 10-30VDC, and you can get a project box from Radio Shack for a few bucks=20 that will fit it. Note that if you want to use this, you will need some way to indicate its=20 output. A good way would be a 12V relay, light, and buzzer, also from Radio=20 Shack. You'd hook the relay to "output pin 3 - Open Collector Output", and use=20 it to drive the indicator light (or LED) and the buzzer. Make sure the coil=20 rating of the relay you get doesn't exceed 100mA at 12V (coil resistance 120=20 ohms max). Finally, the output of this thing is a very short pulse. The spec sheet for=20 the driver circuit says you can add a capacitor at a spot on the circuit board. Again, Radio Shack sells capacitors. A 1uF value across the Cx=20 terminals will make the output pulse for 1 second at a time. Don't forget to=20 jumper the "background cancel level" terminals, too. Looks like you'd want to=20 use position 3 - they label this "general use". You can experiment with a=20 different slot if it's falsely triggering. Sounds like a lot of hookup work, but you could probably do it (minus wiring=20 and installing it) in 20 minutes. I'm just trying to be detailed. =3D) -- Homepage: http://www.flyrotary.com/ Archive and UnSub: http://mail.lancaironline.net/lists/flyrotary/