In a message dated 2/1/2006 10:34:29 PM Eastern Standard Time,  wschertz@ispwest.com writes:

**  speculation/theory**



The only reason for using this stuff is to make the people selling it  happy.

I have never seen it in a racing situation. Distilled water, maybe 10%  antifreeze, a teaspoon full of dishwashing soap. Put the 18-24 pound pressure  cap on the make up tank. Get the air out of the system and that is the best you  can do. At 6,000 RPM the stock pump will empty the coolant in 10 seconds or  less.  If it won't cool with the above setup, it isn't the setup. Its  airflow/exchanger size/ distribution.

All bets are off for turbo installations.

On cool days we run a 160 degree thermostat and tape off part of the  radiator (Griffin).
Normally, (up to the hottest days) no thermostat, full radiator. Top temp  is 180. Oil is 190. It takes a big oil radiator to cool a rotary. I have three 13 row  Setrabs.

If you watch the movies of the instruments after a race, you would think  the engine must be junk. Not the case at all. Even an early downshift that takes  the engine right past the rev limit
(the drivers other hobby) of 9,600 RPM has no affect at all.

I have yet to see an aircraft installation that looked like it could put  out more than 200 HP.
The two GM cores are enough for water. Oil is a poor transfer medium so it  takes a bigger cooler to do the same job (remove the same number of BTUs per  second). There is just no magic involved. There is no need to reinvent the wheel for  each installation.
If you have cooling problems at 180 HP, how will you ever enjoy a 200 HP  installation? The HP is the easy part. Get the cooling right first.

Just my opinion,............I could be wrong.

Are there any opinions on a good airfoil for 2,400 pounds going 200  MPH?

Lynn E. Hanover