X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com Return-Path: Received: from [199.185.220.223] (HELO priv-edtnes28.telusplanet.net) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 5.0.6) with ESMTP id 919082 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Mon, 09 Jan 2006 16:50:12 -0500 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=199.185.220.223; envelope-from=echolakeresort@telus.net Received: from echolake-cc8a26 ([207.194.26.13]) by priv-edtnes28.telusplanet.net (InterMail vM.6.01.05.04 201-2131-123-105-20051025) with ESMTP id <20060109214920.KPVG8796.priv-edtnes28.telusplanet.net@echolake-cc8a26> for ; Mon, 9 Jan 2006 14:49:20 -0700 MIME-Version: 1.0 Message-Id: <43C29A21.000001.03532@ECHOLAKE-CC8A26> Date: Mon, 9 Jan 2006 09:15:13 -0800 (Pacific Standard Time) Content-Type: Multipart/Alternative; boundary="------------Boundary-00=_D95UQL80000000000000" X-Mailer: IncrediMail (4502089) From: "Echo Lake Fishing Resort (Georges Boucher)" References: To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: Frozen coolant... X-FID: FLAVOR00-NONE-0000-0000-000000000000 X-Priority: 3 --------------Boundary-00=_D95UQL80000000000000 Content-Type: Text/Plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable =0D Dave =0D I agree with Bill & Barry, if that mix & temp is accurate you won't have= a loose frost plug. Put a blanket over the cowl & heat up with a propane heater ( be patient, give the engine a chance to get above freezing). App= ly pressure to your cooling system, check for external leaks & loosen the oi= l pan drain plug. If you don't have any sign of coolant at the plug you sho= uld be OK.=0D Georges B. (Canada)=0D -------Original Message-------=0D =0D From: William=0D Date: 01/09/06 06:52:55=0D To: Rotary motors in aircraft=0D Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Frozen coolant...=0D =0D I would like to support Barry's observation. If you truly had 25/75 mix, = and the temp dropped to the 20's, the most the coolant would have likely done= is to turn to a slush that doesn't generate the massive forces that ice generates. Checking for the previous leak is certainly a good idea. =0D Bill Schertz=0D KIS Cruiser # 4045=0D ----- Original Message ----- =0D From: Barry Gardner =0D To: Rotary motors in aircraft =0D Sent: Monday, January 09, 2006 6:00 AM=0D Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Frozen coolant...=0D =0D =0D Dave,=0D =0D You might be too pessimistic. Glycol/water in a 25/75 mix is supposed to protect down to 15 degrees, according to tables I looked up. Low 20's shouldn't have been a problem. Even near the transition point, the mix tu= rns slushy before freezing solid. =0D =0D Nonetheless, you've obviously got a leak somewhere. Just don't assume the worst until you've confirmed it's true. Is your recent leak fix still holding? First place I'd look.=0D =0D Pressurizing the system is a good idea. Auto parts stores like Autozone w= ill lend you the coolant system pressure tester that fits in standard radiat= or cap openings. Pressurize and see where it leaks. You can also dump in a U= V dye indicator (I've bought it at NAPA), run the engine briefly and then l= ook for the leak using a black light. I've used both the pressure tester and = UV dye.=0D =0D Sorry about your troubles.=0D =0D Barry Gardner=0D Wheaton, IL=0D =0D David Leonard wrote: =0D I flew to Mammoth this weekend for some snow boarding. Has a great time, and was 210 kts GS on the way up.=0D =0D Parked the plane for two nights and came back out this afternoon for the flight home. But there was a small puddle of coolant under the engine... and it was still dripping. =0D =0D Then I remembered. I recently sprung a leak in a cooling line - while aw= ay from home. After fixing the leak I used tap water to refill what coolant had been lost - about a gallon. I had forgotten all about that on this latest trip... to the mountains. I figure the antifreeze level was now d= own to about 25/75 and the overnight temps in the low 20's did the job. =0D =0D I had to concentrate on getting back home for work tomorrow so I couldn't= do much. I couldn't even take off the lower cowl.=0D =0D I suspect the radiator is cracked somewhere. Anyone have any experience with this sort of thing? Can this do damage to the engine block? The radiator is custom and will not be cheap to replace, and it will take a while, and the plane is an 8 hour drive away... :-( =0D =0D -- =0D Dave Leonard=0D Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY=0D http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/rotaryroster/index.html=0D http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/vp4skydoc/index.html =0D --=0D =0D Homepage: http://www.flyrotary.com/=0D =0D Archive and UnSub: http://mail.lancaironline.net/lists/flyrotary/=0D =20 --------------Boundary-00=_D95UQL80000000000000 Content-Type: Text/HTML; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
 
 Dave
I agree with Bill & Barry, if  that mix & temp is = accurate you won't have a loose frost plug. Put a blanket over the cowl &= amp; heat up with a propane heater ( be patient, give the engine a chance= to get above freezing). Apply pressure to your cooling system, check for= external leaks & loosen the oil pan drain plug. If you don't have an= y sign of coolant at the plug you should be OK.
Georges B. (Canada)
-------Original Message-------
 
From: William
Date: 01/09/06 06:= 52:55
Subject: [FlyRotar= y] Re: Frozen coolant...
 
I would like to support Barry's observat= ion. If you truly had 25/75 mix, and the temp dropped to the 20's, the mo= st the coolant would have likely done is to turn to a slush that doesn't = generate the massive forces that ice generates. Checking for the previous= leak is certainly a good idea.
Bill Schertz
KIS Cruiser # 4045
----- Original Message -----
<= B>From: Barry Gardner
Sent: Monday, January 09, 2006 6:0= 0 AM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Frozen co= olant...

Dave,

You might be too pessimistic. Glycol/water in= a 25/75 mix is supposed to protect down to 15 degrees, according to tabl= es I looked up. Low 20's shouldn't have been a problem. Even near the tra= nsition point, the mix turns slushy before freezing solid.

Noneth= eless, you've obviously got a leak somewhere. Just don't assume the worst= until you've confirmed it's true. Is your recent leak fix still holding?= First place I'd look.

Pressurizing the system is a good idea. Aut= o parts stores like Autozone will lend you the coolant system pressure te= ster that fits in standard  radiator cap openings. Pressurize and se= e where it leaks. You can also dump in a UV dye indicator (I've bought it= at NAPA), run the engine briefly and then look for the leak using a blac= k light. I've used both the pressure tester and UV dye.

Sorry abou= t your troubles.

Barry Gardner
Wheaton, IL

David Leonard= wrote:=20
I flew to Mammoth this weekend for some snow boarding.  Has a g= reat time, and was 210 kts GS on the way up.
 
Parked the plane for two nights and came back out this afternoon for= the flight home.  But there was a small puddle of coolant under the= engine... and it was still dripping. 
 
Then I remembered.  I recently sprung a leak in a cooling line = - while away from home.  After fixing the leak I used tap water to r= efill what coolant had been lost - about a gallon.  I had forgotten = all about that on this latest trip... to the mountains.  I figure th= e antifreeze level was now down to about 25/75 and the overnight temps in= the low 20's did the job.
 
I had to concentrate on getting back home for work tomorrow so I cou= ldn't do much.  I couldn't even take off the lower cowl.
 
I suspect the radiator is cracked somewhere.  Anyone have any e= xperience with this sort of thing?  Can this do damage to the engine= block?  The radiator is custom and will not be cheap to replace, an= d it will take a while, and the plane is an 8 hour drive away...  :-= (

--
Dave Leonard
Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY
http://mem= bers.aol.com/_ht_a/rotaryroster/index.html
http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/vp4sk= ydoc/index.html 

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