The advice I gave in the conversion guide (on thermal pellet disabling) was
based on Racing Beat's info on the subject. There are two reasons why I
decided to do it.
1. It eliminates a possible failure mode should the thermal pellet
fail in open position. Likelihood of this is not known AFAIK.
2. The oil pressure to the main and rotor bearings is reduced to a
very low level during warmup. If you over-rev the engine during this
period you may damage the bearings and if the load on the engine is high, the
oil seal O-rings will be overheated and ruined due to the lack of oil cooling to
the rotors during this period. The first engine I installed in the
RV-4 had suffered this by it's previous owner.
EC2 stuff
Sorry for the delay in feedback to Dave Leonard's question on EC2
programming. Been buried with work after the Colorado trip (which was a
blast!)
Not that Dave has not already done this, but the first step in successfully
programming the EC2 is to read and understand the theory of operation in the
installation guide. Getting a good mental picture of what you are doing in
each of the programming modes is essential. Especially important is
to understand that manifold pressure is the KEY factor in setting up the MAP
table. Many builders will report to me that they programmed the controller
(in mode 1) in 100 or 200 RPM steps and it still has places in the throttle
setting where the mixture goes way rich or lean. Although RPM is related
to MP, it's not the same thing. Two instruments are vital
during EC2 programming : A properly functioning mixture monitor and a
Manifold Absolute Pressure gauge.
Even after you understand the theory, it can still be tricky to program the
EC2 in certain spots like the staging point where it switches from 2 to 4
injectors. I'd do this before shipping them but because every installation
is different, this is not possible. I'm constantly refining the software
to make this easier.
I fully understand why it would make a builder nervous when depending on a
single (and very small) source for key parts of the engine installation.
This is a two-edged sword however. Being small means that it
may vanish with the owner's death or retirement. But on the other
hand, it means that you can personally talk to the engineer who designed the
equipment and who will do everything he can to help make the project a
success. Take advantage of that. Be willing to do your homework and
reading assignments though : )
Just moved Finn's engine/forward section of fuselage to the storage
hangar. Finn suggested that it and the rest of the RV-3 in the woods might
be an interesting tour during the Rotary Roundup fly-in next month.
Tracy (back to the grindstone)
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, September 28, 2005 9:42
PM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Renesis Thermal
Pellet
Leon,
Have you any comments on removing or leaving in
the themal pellet. I'm ready to remove my engnie from the motor mount
and borrow a "large" impact wrench to remove the bolt tomorrow.
Your advice based on years of experience always makes perfict sence. I'd
really like your advisce on this before I move ahead on it.
Dennis
H.!
Leon Promet wrote:
Hi Guys,
Can someone please tell me why you want to remove the thermal pellet
please??
Leon
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dennis Haverlah" <clouduster@austin.rr.com>
To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Sent: Monday, September 26, 2005 11:56 PM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Renesis Thermal Pellet
Bill Dube posted several notes on removing the "E" shaft bolt and
thermal pellet from a Renesis. At the time I didn't pay much
attention. Now I'm ready to remove mine and can't get the bolt out!!
Has anyone found a source for the thermal pellet replacement pin (for
the Renesis) to keep the oil passage open! Bill - could you give me
details as to how you blocked the "E" shaft flywheel and any other
helpful information - I have Tracy's 3.85 gear box already mounted. I
tried blocking the damper weight with a block of aluminum and using a
LONG cheater I still could not break the bolt loose. I wonder why the
factory put them in so tight? Is it necessary to first heat the bolt
with a torch?
Thanks,
Dennis H.
RV-7A, Renesis
Austin, Tx
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