X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com Return-Path: Received: from imo-m26.mx.aol.com ([64.12.137.7] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 5.0c2) with ESMTP id 713538 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Tue, 06 Sep 2005 21:02:25 -0400 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=64.12.137.7; envelope-from=Lehanover@aol.com Received: from Lehanover@aol.com by imo-m26.mx.aol.com (mail_out_v38_r4.1.) id q.1ec.42a969f5 (17079) for ; Tue, 6 Sep 2005 21:01:36 -0400 (EDT) From: Lehanover@aol.com Message-ID: <1ec.42a969f5.304f95ef@aol.com> Date: Tue, 6 Sep 2005 21:01:35 EDT Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] a little Off subject To: flyrotary@lancaironline.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="-----------------------------1126054895" X-Mailer: 9.0 SE for Windows sub 5017 X-Spam-Flag: NO -------------------------------1126054895 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 9/6/2005 12:34:58 PM Eastern Daylight Time, tphy@bmi.net writes: Lynn, I just picked up a 91 rx-7 with a frozen engine. My intent is to turn it into one mean autocross , hillclimbing racer. Where do I start? Is there a web site for this madness. I'm looking for tons of low end torque (I think, I am using my stock 91 convertible now, and it's lacking in this department) Any help would be most appreciated! Also, I need new street tires for the convertible, something that would be good on wet roads, any suggestions? Thanks in advance, Tom in Central OR ( also putting a rotary in my RV-7) Is this a NA engine? The rotary is lacking in low end torque. Not that the big car version has a 20B engine (three rotors). It has a generous redline in stock trim, and any hope of HP production requires a trip to RPM ville. The street engines can take bursts a bit above the red line without damage. There are a number of items that make a big difference for little money. A big streetport (this all depends very much on the end use of the car) if street driven to the events. The primaries are cleaned up but timing is left stock. So, when on the street at normal speeds there is nothing going on but a stock engine. Then you port the hell out of the secondaries (the big end ports) so when the revs get high enough to open the secondaries, you have some real good power. This strategy is also good on gas mileage. You can also bridge port the secondaries for more of the same effect. This also lets you maintain a near normal idle. For race only stuff you bridgeport the whole thing. No low end at all. Not much power until 6,000 RPM, then hang on Nellie. Need 100 PSI of oil pressure, a baffle between the pan and engine to keep the pickup covered. (a good idea for any rotary racer). Best power will be above 9,400 RPM. Aftermarket one piece seals (carbon). Cut the rotor tips down .015" to keep them off of the irons during crank flex. Scrape off the indium from thr first 1/8" of the rear stationary gear. Race rotor bearings. Aftermarket header with freeflowing muffler. Timing at 25-27 degrees fixed both leading and trailing. Put the muffler under the rear bumper or it will melt. I have two tube frame race cars, but no street Mazdas. I don't even know what size tires they use. Sorry. Lynn E. Hanover -------------------------------1126054895 Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

In a message dated 9/6/2005 12:34:58 PM Eastern Daylight Time, tphy@bmi= .net=20 writes:

<= FONT=20 style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=3DArial color=3D#000000 size= =3D2>

Lynn, I just picked up a 91 rx-7 with a frozen engine. My intent is t= o=20 turn it into one mean autocross , hillclimbing racer. Where do I start? Is= =20 there a web site for this madness. I'm looking for tons of low end torque=20= (I=20 think, I am using my stock 91 convertible now, and it's lacking in this=20 department) Any help would be most appreciated! Also, I need new street ti= res=20 for the convertible, something that would be good on wet roads, any=20 suggestions? Thanks in advance, Tom in Central OR ( also putting a=20 rotary in my RV-7)

Is this a NA engine?

The rotary is lacking in low end torque. Not that the big car version h= as a=20 20B engine (three rotors). It has a generous redline in stock trim, and any=20= hope=20 of HP production requires a trip to RPM ville. The street engines can take=20 bursts a bit above the red line without damage.

There are a number of items that make a big difference for little=20 money.

A big streetport (this all depends very much on the end use of the car)= if=20 street driven to the events. The primaries are cleaned up but timing is left= =20 stock. So, when on the street at normal speeds there is nothing going on but= a=20 stock engine. Then you port the hell out of the secondaries (the big end por= ts)=20 so when the revs get high enough to open the secondaries, you have some real= =20 good power. This strategy is also good on gas mileage.

You can also bridge port the secondaries for more of the same effect. T= his=20 also lets you maintain a near normal idle. For race only stuff you bridgepor= t=20 the whole thing. No low end at all. Not much power until 6,000 RPM, then han= g on=20 Nellie.

Need 100 PSI of oil pressure, a baffle between the pan and engine to ke= ep=20 the pickup covered. (a good idea for any rotary racer). Best power will be a= bove=20 9,400 RPM. Aftermarket one piece seals (carbon). Cut the rotor tips down .01= 5"=20 to keep them off of the irons during crank flex. Scrape off the indium from=20= thr=20 first 1/8" of the rear stationary gear. Race rotor bearings. Aftermarke= t=20 header with freeflowing muffler. Timing at 25-27 degrees fixed both leading=20= and=20 trailing. Put the muffler under the rear bumper or it will melt.

I have two tube frame race cars, but no street Mazdas. I don't even kno= w=20 what size tires they use. Sorry.

Lynn E. Hanover

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