> The referenced article states that current through the starter switch
>  >will
>  >be somewhere between 25-35 amps.  Most switches I've seen are rated at
>  >10-15 amps.  Pegasus Auto Racing, Inc. has a 40 amp push-button

>  >switch (p/n 4546) for $8.99, if that's what you
>  >prefer.   http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pdfs/047.pdf

The rather long and small diameter wire that makes up the solenoid

limit current flow in two ways. Plain resistance and inductive reactance.

closing of the starter button applies power to this coil. The current flow
generates a flux field (that makes the armature move) and the expanding

cuts through those same windings and in doing so, generates a current flow
that opposes the battery generated current flow. So, that the current flow
increases very slowly
(in electrical terms) .

There would seldom be any damage from latching up the solenoid. However,
since the solenoid is a coil of many turns with a fully developed flux

expanded through it, when you release the starter button, that flux field

and this solenoid coil acts exactly like the ignition coil. Now the
collapsing flux field re-cuts all of the coil windings in a very short

starts an arc across the slowly (in electrical terms) opening contacts of

starter button. Eventually the contacts will become so damaged and dirty

current flow cannot be established.

You can protect this set of contacts (points)? Just as the points in an

car are protected. Just place a capacitor across the contacts. You can add

high value resister to bleed down the capacitor if you like. You don't

high current switch at all. In my GTP Lola we used a micro switch. The

the switch weighed as much as the switch. Or, if you worry about this kind

thing, put in a 30 amp rated starter button.

Any time you power up an inductive loop you should be aware of the very

voltages and arcing that my occur when the circuit is opened.