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Paul,
Very nice. I'd heard before that t was [possible to
mount the Geo alternator on the 13B, but I hadn't ever
obtained one. I also "feel" that the Mazda is more
reliable, but that is just based on knowing how GM
cuts corner, especially on low end cars. I'm curious if you weighed the stock alternator, and
the Geo, to see how much weight difference there is. I'd be prone to change just for the weight loss. 55
amps would be more than enough. I've never seen more
than about 40 amps after start, and that is just for a
few seconds. Normal running current seems to be in
the 13 amp range, with just engine and GPS/Comm.
I'm in SC right now and planning to do some work on
the plane today. I found some interference in the
aileron control, caused by the elevator tube hitting
the vacuum line. I'm going to cut off the 5/8" vacuum
line where it comes through the bottom of the firewall
and run 3/8 to the regulator. It is 3/8 after the
regulator anyways, but I ran 5/8 from the rear to the
front and up to the regulator, because of the long
run. I don't think that changing out 2' of line from
5/8 to 3/8 will hurt me, but it'll gain a 1/4" of
clearance which will resolve the interference issue.
Probably won't be able to fly today due to high winds,
but hopefully will get in a couple of hours tomorrow
before heading back to NC.
Steve Brooks
--- Paul <sqpilot@bellsouth.net> wrote:
I purchased and installed a smaller alternator for
my rotary powered SQ2000. It is an alternator for a
1995-1997 Geo Metro automobile, and is 55 amps, and
smaller than the stock Mazda alternator. Fortunately, the width of the mounting ears and
location of the tang where the alternator adjustment
bracket attach are in the same location. It looks
identical to the 1989 Mazda alternator, except for
it's reduced size. It is 55 amps. It came with a small serpentine grooved pulley,
so I removed that and installed the double grooved
pulley I got from Rusty. (Thanks, Rusty).
Unfortunately, the pulley was concaved on the rear
and would rub against the alternator body, so I had
to make a small spacer to move the pulley just far
enough away from the alternator case so it would not
make contact. Fortunately, there were enough threads
left to install the pulley. I also had to make a
small sleeve to fit over the threads so that the
pulley had more contact area inside (so that it
would be on the new shoulder instead of against
threads). The only other change necessary was the
alternator mounting thru-bolt. The stock Mazda was
10 mm, and the new alternator required an 8 mm bolt.
I just went to CarQuest and got a 10mm to 8mm valve
guide and as you can see in the picture, that was
the end of that problem. Hope this is useful
information to someone....anyone...???
Paul Conner> >> Homepage: http://www.flyrotary.com/
>> Archive: http://lancaironline.net/lists/flyrotary/List.html
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