???????? flyrotary@lancaironline.net ????? #18612
???: Paul <sqpilot@bellsouth.net>
??: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: Heater valve
??: Thu, 10 Mar 2005 11:58:09 -0600
??: Rotary motors in aircraft <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
I tried the heavier duty valves from the hardware store for our tractor-trailer cab on the one that had a small leak. It was harder to operate, and the cable would just buckle and was unable to operate the valve.  I guess if you used some really heavy duty cable, however... Also, I have only had to replace one of these units on our tractors, because it slowly developed the slightest seepage.  You could see evidence on the interior carpet, but the leak was not sufficient to see any drips or anything.  Of course our tractors are only an average age of 9 years old, with an average mileage of 900 thousand miles. Don't know how well they will stand the test of time in another 9 or so years.  FWIW.  Paul Conner
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Thursday, March 10, 2005 1:28 AM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Heater valve

Group,
   I have been watching this thread for the last day or two and this is
my .02 cents worth........All of these valves seem to have one thing in
common........Cheaply made and with long term reliability questionable !!
  I am not willing to trust these valves not to fail or leak at a bad time
for my project.......I plan to use one of the brass or stainless ball valves
(often used for fuel cutoff also) available at most plumbing or hardware
stores and McMaster-Carr ,etc.......The lever can be adapted to a cable
for operation easily.........FWIW
 
--
Kelly Troyer
Dyke Delta/13B/RD1C/EC2




-------------- Original message from "Todd Bartrim" <haywire@telus.net>: --------------

This is the same valve I used (the one that's not working very well right now :-), except in 5/8" X 5/8". Actually I doubt it's just the valve at fault. I've been thinking more about this and I'm certain that this became an issue immediately after I changed to the pink anti-freeze, along with a few other minor issues. The cable that I use to operate this is also not of the highest quality. It is from a manual choke conversion kit ($7, cheap & lightweight).
Todd
 

When you get a chance, why don’t you look up the p/n and put it on the Wikki site?  That way, those that haven’t “been there, done that” might have a little easier journey. 

Mark S.

    Yes, there is a huge selection of push/pull cable operated valves available. I was able to buy a simple, lightweight valve that fit my system perfectly. Just go to your local autoparts store and ask to look through their catalogue. You should be able to find something suitable that they have in stock.

 


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