When you get a chance, why don’t you look up the p/n and put it on the Wikki site?  That way, those that haven’t “been there, done that” might have a little easier journey. 

 

BTW, I used a 65-67 Mustang heater core.  They’re about $29.00 and are available from many of the vintage Mustang parts houses.  You can also get a pair of molded rubber cushions that hold the core at each end and keep it from moving ($12).  Only drawback is that they’re brass and therefore heavier than AL.  Heater box is made of aluminum. 

 

Mark S.

 

    Yes, there is a huge selection of push/pull cable operated valves available. I was able to buy a simple, lightweight valve that fit my system perfectly. Just go to your local autoparts store and ask to look through their catalogue. You should be able to find something suitable that they have in stock.

    However, recently it has been sticking. When it is cold it will easily push & pull, but as it warms up in the cabin I try to push it closed and it is stuck solid. The cable just flexes at the point where it is unsheathed. I can't reach it in flight so it sometimes gets a little too warm in the cabin. With summer approaching I need to address this. It was fine to begin with. Now that I'm thinking about it, the trouble began last fall shortly after I flushed the system and switched to the pink long life anti-freeze. I wonder if it has less lubricating properties or has some chemical that is incompatible with any possible lining that is inside the valve?

Something else to think about

Todd    (glad I don't have an exhaust pipe heat muff)



Why build when you can buy what you want?

http://www.vapinc.com/mopar/Heater%20Valves/main.html

        Plenty of cable-operated heater control valves in older cars.