Return-Path: Received: from tomcat.al.noaa.gov ([140.172.240.2] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 4.3c2) with ESMTP id 755242 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Tue, 22 Feb 2005 19:55:06 -0500 Received-SPF: none receiver=logan.com; client-ip=140.172.240.2; envelope-from=bdube@al.noaa.gov Received: from PILEUS.al.noaa.gov (pileus.al.noaa.gov [140.172.241.195]) by tomcat.al.noaa.gov (8.12.0/8.12.0) with ESMTP id j1N0sKsX017682 for ; Tue, 22 Feb 2005 17:54:20 -0700 (MST) Message-Id: <5.2.1.1.0.20050222174401.05386d30@mailsrvr.al.noaa.gov> X-Sender: bdube@mailsrvr.al.noaa.gov X-Mailer: QUALCOMM Windows Eudora Version 5.2.1 Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2005 17:54:04 -0700 To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" From: Bill Dube Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: 2nd battery Re: Amps required to run engine&- hours available In-Reply-To: Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed > >The hard part is how much current do you get for what voltage at what >RPM? When I asked this question of several people, I was given a choice: > >1) Guess. Test. Repeat. >2) Buy a product that is rated for your requirements. I think it would be best to start with a motorcycle stator that put out the right current and was the right size to fit over the crank and inside a modified crankshaft pulley. From that point, you would build a prototype PM rotor (crankshaft pulley) and simply play with the air gap to get the right output voltage. You don't have to change the gap much to get a big difference in voltage. You might have to swap the magnets for more or less powerful ones if the output voltage is WAY off.