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David, In reply to your mounting question, Tracy's method is probably the
best, some people who have access to a hoist may want to leave the plate
attached to the mount. It's whatever method works better for you. The
plate may be removed very easily by removing the four mounting bolts.
I've been using Permatex Ultra Black for some other aviation engine work
and have had good luck with it, be sure to go around the holes with
sealant, I like to take a putty knife about 3/4" wide and spread it
where the engine flange meets the plate about 1/16" thick. This is
plenty of sealant to do the job without risk of squeezing to much out of
the joint that could come loose and possibly be ingested by the oil
pick-up. Repeat the proceedure for the oil pan. Fred
At 12:14 AM 2/17/2005, you wrote:
Well.. its on at this point.. if I
have any reason to believe its leaking I will take it off, clean it off
and start with the RTV. I had picked up the permatex a while back at the
aircraft store and thought.. Hmm.. Aviation Grade sealant/liquid gasket..
so thats where that came from.
I have since played email tag with Chris and he indicated that the CCI
mount was shipped with hardware bolts in it, that need to have AN
bolts put in their place. They are SOMEWHERE in the hangar (supposedly)
for safekeeping :) SO.. it appears to be a non-issue to yank the
shock-mount bolts out to run the pan bolts in, then replace with
AN/supplied premium bolts. I actually may have been a bit premature on
putting the block on the plane, so this is a bonus, in that I can take
the engine/plate combo off and sit it on a jig that will support it on
one of the worktables.
Thanks for the compliment, Tracy.. at the risk of being an overacheiver,
I WANT my mechanical and electrical work to rival factory appearance as a
sign of quality. I don't want to show the plane off only to have people
flinching and wincing at the workmanship they view.
Tracy Crook wrote:
Sounds like your 'shop craft' as I
call it is excellent David.
Only thing I would question is the use of brushable sealant for sealing
the pan & mount plate. I'd recommend a slower curing RTV type
such as Ultra Gray. Just as important is the procedure.
Arrange things so that you can do all the sealing in an uninterrupted
sequence. Your light tightening of bolts first then final
tightening after sealant is cured is a good practice.
Installation of the plate & pan should be done before installing the
completed assembly on the engine mount. This also avoids the bolt
interference on the engine mount. I've never had an oil leak in several
engine installs using this procedure.
Good shop craft skills are an under-rated factor in a good engine
installation.
Tracy
Well, went out this morning to the hangar and commenced to some minor
aircraft work.. nothing spectacular...
My first minor project was drilling bolt heads for safety wire.. I
tapped 2 of the M6x1x25 hardware store bolts (that I had bought for the
pan mounting ) for safety wiring. I then took the pickup tube and spacer
and used Permatex to mate them together, then permatex'd and bolted the
tube and spacer assembly to the block. My next experiment was my first
at safety wiring "properly". I ended up making about 2-3 tries
at it
before I was satisfied that the wire arrangement would not allow the
bolts to loosen.. minimal bloodshed and looks pretty good.
I spent some time dressing the oil pan for preliminary mounting,
including cleaning out shavings from some minor surgery I did on it last
week. The stock pan has a baffle in one corner that deflects spray from
the rear pressure regulator. However, these baffles interfere with
mounting flush against the CCI mounting plate, so we dremeled them off
and deburred it during my last hangar session. After removing old gasket
material and wire brushing the pan, I turned to the engine. I ran 4
small M6x1x25 hardware bolts into the block through the mount maybe
a
turn or two.. just enough to hold, then I picked up the block using the
engine hoist. This gave me a uniform gap of about 1/4" to work in
around
the perimeter of the mounting plate. I brushed on permatex to the top of
the plate and the bottom of the engine and set up a liberal coat as best
I could. I then cinched the bolts down slowing, drawing the engine back
down to the mount and allowing some time for the permatex to start to
set up before it was compressed between the two surfaces. I let this sit
for a bit, and of course let all the tension off the hoist. I then took
after the pan and brushed the permatex on the pan flange and bottom of
the mounting plate. Painting uphill with runny sealant was a challenge
and my fingers STILL have a protective gasket coating on them.. But I
was able to mate those surfaces and ran in about 14 of the hardware
store bolts, to cinch the pan snug.
It was at this point I realized that mounting the pan/engine would be a
little tricky. The rear/aft portion of the CCI mount has a crosspiece
underneath the pan that runs along the bottom side of the pan
flange/bolt line. This interferes to the point that two holes are unable
to have a socket placed on bolts located in them, and 4 or 5 more holes
are inaccessible with proper length bolts. The most obvious solution is
to remove the corner shock mount bolts to allow lifting the mounting
plate off the remainder of the frame. I dont have the documentation
handy from the CCI mount. If Fred or anyone else here with the info is
able to, let me know the procedure to remove and reinstall the shock
mount bolts to allow access to the rear line of pan mounting bolts. With
Chris's current schedule its difficult for us to catch up with each
other lately, so if someone from here gets back to me before he does
regarding this, all the better.
On a side note, yes, I am using hardware store bolts at the moment..
they are temporary only. I will be going to the bolt shop today or
tomorrow and getting some grade 8 metric bolts. I would like to poll the
audience however, regarding methods of safetying the bolts. Any
experience with safety wire on this number of bolts? Lock washers? Star
Washers? Locktite? Looking back I wish I had safetywired the Tension
Bolts on the engine rebuilt, simply in case one sheared it wouldnt risk
hitting anything by sliding out, but thats not a realistic option
without rebuilding the engine at this point (we had a real snug fit with
all the silicone and shrinkwrap on the bolts)
On a side note, Chris put the AN fittings on the aluminum tubing that
runs from the oil cooler in the nose to the aft bulkhead. Pictures to
follow.
Dave
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