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It seems to me people should be using deep
cycle marine batteries for there aircraft. A deep cycle marine battery will
give much better and longer performance with a dead alternator.
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Starting (sometimes called SLI, for
starting, lighting, ignition) batteries are commonly used to start and run
engines. Engine starters need a very large starting current for a very short
time. Starting batteries have a large number of thin plates for maximum
surface area. The plates are composed of a Lead "sponge", similar
in appearance to a very fine foam sponge. This gives a very large surface
area, but if deep cycled, this sponge will quickly be consumed and fall to
the bottom of the cells. Automotive batteries
will generally fail after 30-150 deep cycles if deep cycled, while they may
last for thousands of cycles in normal starting use (2-5% discharge).
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Deep cycle batteries
are designed to be discharged down as much as 80% time after time, and have
much thicker plates. The major difference between a true deep cycle
battery and others is that the plates are SOLID Lead plates - not sponge.
Unfortunately, it is often impossible to tell what you are really buying in
some of the discount stores or places that specialize in automotive
batteries. The popular golf cart battery is generally a "semi" deep
cycle - better than any starting battery, better than most marine, but not as
good as a true deep cycle solid Lead plate, such the L-16 or industrial type.
However, because the golf cart (T-105, US-2200, GC-4 etc) batteries are so
common, they are usually quite economical for small to medium systems.
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Many (most?) Marine batteries are
usually actually a "hybrid", and fall between the starting and
deep-cycle batteries, while a few (Rolls-Surrette and Concorde, for example)
are true deep cycle. In the hybrid, the plates may be composed of Lead
sponge, but it is coarser and heavier than that used in starting batteries.
It is often hard to tell what you are getting in a "marine"
battery, but most are a hybrid. "Hybrid" types should not be
discharged more than 50%. Starting batteries are usually rated at
"CCA", or cold cranking amps, or "MCA", Marine cranking
amps - the same as "CA". Any battery with the capacity shown in CA
or MCA may not be a true deep-cycle battery. It is sometimes hard to tell, as
the terms marine and deep cycle are sometimes
overused. CA and MCA ratings are at 32 degrees F, while CCA is at zero degree
F. Unfortunately, the only positive way to tell with some batteries is to buy
one and cut it open - not much of an option.”
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There
is generally no problem with this, providing that allowance is made for the
lower cranking
amps compared to a similar size starting battery. As
a general rule, if you are going to use a true deep cycle battery (such as the
Concorde) also as a starting battery, it should be oversized
about 20% compared to the existing or recommended starting battery group size
to get the same cranking amps. That is about the same as replacing a group 24
with a group 31. With modern engines with fuel injection and electronic
ignition, it generally takes much less battery power to crank and start them,
so raw cranking amps is less important than it used to be. On the other hand,
many cars, boats, and RV's are more heavily loaded with power sucking
"appliances", such as megawatt stereo systems etc. that are more
suited for deep cycle batteries. We have been using the Concorde SunExtender
AGM batteries in most of our vehicles for some time now with no problems.”
http://www.windsun.com/Batteries/Battery_FAQ.htm
Alex
Madsen
From: Rotary motors in aircraft
[mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net] On
Behalf Of WRJJRS@aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, February 16, 2005
2:54 AM
To: Rotary
motors in aircraft
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Battery voltage (was: Racetech RV6A Forced Landing)
Most of the motorcycles will still
show at least 11 volts while cranking and those are small batteries. They will
jump back up to at least 12.5 after cranking. I agree that 9.5 volts is almost
totally dead for practical purposes. Most battery based systems will have
trouble at around 10 volts. Use a backup battery and a changeover system with
any electrically based system. The EXP Buss (I think) is sold by the anywhere
map people. Makes it very easy to set up a battery backup system and still
charge both. I think Eggenfellner also sells them. Good looking product, a good
friend has one.
For battery info go to the Yuasa
web site. In the technical section they have a excellent do's and don'ts
of battery operation. There is also a good description of the different battery
types and their discharge rates. Good info to know about this VITAL system
part!
In a message dated 2/15/2005 11:34:28 PM
Pacific Standard Time, lendich@optusnet.com.au writes:
Bill,
What would you expect the battery to show under starting load.
George ( down under)
>
> > I suspected a charging system failure immediately and checked
the
> >battery voltage in the SDS monitor. This read 9.5 volts so I knew then
that
> >we had a charging system failure. At the time, I was not worried about
> >making it to an airport, assuming that the alternator had failed just
in
the
> >last few minutes and believing that I had 20-25 minutes of battery
power
> >remaining. In fact, it is likely that the alternator failed soon after
> >takeoff from Springbank but I did not notice signs of the failure
until
the
> >battery was well over half dead.
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