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Today I typed up the procedure for making your own TC probes. It took me longer
to type it than it takes to make 2 of them. I hope this is clear enough to
follow. I know that a few pics taken during construction would be worth much
more, however I didn't have a camera with me at work when I made
these.
EGT Thermocouple construction
procedure
Materials Required;
1. .25"x0.49" 316SS tubing
2. Solid "K" type thermocouple wire (positive &
negative)
3. 1/8" ceramic TC wire spacers. Some of these don't seem to be made
uniformly, (at least not the ones I had on hand) and you may need to sort
through a bunch in order to find some that will fit snugly inside a ¼" SS tube.
They can be found at
http://www.omega.com/pptst/ORX_INSULATORS.html
4. "K" type extension wire (preferably multi strand)
5. Silver Solder
6. 316SS 1/16" TIG welding rod
7. Tightly wound spring with ¼" ID, approx 3" - 6" long
8. Tightly wound spring with ¼" OD approx 3" - 6" long
9. Parker or Sweglok tube fitting ¼"tube X 1/8" NPT
10. Electrical
insulator cloth.
Procedure;
- Using a stainless tube cutter (extra hard
wheel), cut tube to desired length for TC probe. Deburr one end only, leaving
the other end with burr only allowing a small hole in end of tube.
- Cut + & - solid TC wires several inches
longer than probe length.
- Twist the ends of these wires several times to
create the TC junction
- Slide several ceramic spacers onto the TC
wire.
- Insert this TC into the SS tube in the deburred
end, until the twisted TC junction extends approx 1/8" through the small
burred hole on the other end of the tube.
- Lightly clamp in vice with tip facing up.
- TIG weld closed the top of the tube, including
in the weld, the twisted pair of TC wires. This requires a delicate touch and
very little filler rod. Best to practice on some scrap tube ends first. There
should be no filler material extending past the OD of the tube. Lightly grind
or file off any excess if necessary. Clean up using wire wheel if desired.
This is your grounded tip thermocouple.
- Slide on several more inches of ceramic spacers
on to the TC wires
- Strip approx 1" of the outer sheath off of the
extension wire and ½" of the insulation off the ends of the extension
wires.
- Silver solder these extension wires to the TC
wires. Ensure the polarity of wires is correct. Red is always negative in
TC's. The negative wire in "K" type is also magnetic while the positive wire
is non-magnetic.
- Wrap these junctions with an electrical
fibrecloth insulator, ensuring to keep wrap tight (1/4" OD). There are
probably other acceptable ways to insulate this junction including putty or
ceramic, but this worked well for me.
- Slide the tightly wound spring with ¼" ID over
the extension wire, over the solder splice to the TC wires (ensure insulator
wrap slides securely inside spring), over ceramic spacers and finally onto the
end of the ¼" tube. You will need to "screw" this spring onto the tube end,
which it will easily do, using the spring coils as "threads". This will
securely hold spring onto the probe and provide a high temperature, flexible
sheath over the TC wire splice, to provide mechanical protection.
- Slide smaller spring with the ¼" ID over the
extension wire. This should fit quite tightly to the extension wire, so a
"screwing" action may be required to slide it along the wire. When you reach
the larger spring, the 2 springs can be "screwed" together with the OD of the
coils of the smaller spring mating perfectly with the ID of the coils of the
larger spring. Screw these together for 1" - 2" or just short of the splice
location.
- The tube fitting has a shoulder in it,
preventing the tubing from passing though. This is there as normally this
fitting is just used to couple tube to pipe. This shoulder needs to be removed
by drilling out with a ¼" drill bit. Once removed this fitting will slide
easily over the end of the TC probe.
- Drill & tap the manifold in the desired
location with a 1/8" NPT hole. The surface of the manifold can be extremely
hard, preventing even the best drill bits from starting a hole. Use an angle
grinder to just take a little off the surface... use this as an opportunity to
make a flat surface to insert the tube fitting in until the outer shoulder
contacts evenly.
- Once the tube fitting has been fully seated,
check the inside of the manifold to see if any part of the threaded fitting
protrudes into the exhaust path. Grind off with a die grinder if
necessary.
- With ferrule and tube nut loosely screwed onto
the tube fitting, insert TC probe until the tip is just protruding into the
exhaust gas path - or to desired depth.
- Tighten tube nut approx, 1.5 - 2 turns. This
will seat the ferrule permanently onto the tube. If you tighten too much you
will squeeze the tube to point where you will begin to hear the ceramic wire
spacers begin to crack under the pressure.
- Loosening the tube nut allows the TC to be
removed.
- That's it you're
done.
Todd Bartrim
RV9Endurance
13B Turbo Rotary
C-FSTB
"The world will always have a place for those that bring hard work and
determination to the things they do."
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