Return-Path: Received: from imf17aec.mail.bellsouth.net ([205.152.59.65] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 4.2.5) with ESMTP id 595314 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Fri, 07 Jan 2005 22:35:35 -0500 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=205.152.59.65; envelope-from=atlasyts@bellsouth.net Received: from [65.11.44.41] by imf17aec.mail.bellsouth.net (InterMail vM.5.01.06.11 201-253-122-130-111-20040605) with ESMTP id <20050108033505.JTSP2402.imf17aec.mail.bellsouth.net@[65.11.44.41]> for ; Fri, 7 Jan 2005 22:35:05 -0500 User-Agent: Microsoft-Entourage/10.1.4.030702.0 Date: Fri, 07 Jan 2005 22:35:40 -0500 Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: oi/water Exchanger [FlyRotary] Re: fluidyne oil cooler From: Bulent Aliev To: Rotary motors in aircraft Message-ID: In-Reply-To: Mime-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit On 1/7/05 8:46 PM, "daveleonard@cox.net" wrote: > I was considering the idea when I was planning my installation and one big > question kept popping into my mind: which side of the rad do you put the > interchanger? > > If you put the interchanger on the hot water coming out of the block, that > water is at least 180deg. This hot water will have a very hard time cooling > that oil, and best case could only get it down to 190 or 200. Likewise the > water is likely to boil before it get to the radiator since it is starting at > 180 (at least) and going up from there. > > If you put the interchanger after the radiator it will probably do a good job > of cooling the oil, but now you will be heating the water right before it goes > back into the engine. In order to keep the water from overheating in the > engine it will have to come out of the heat exchanger relatively cool, which > mean it has to come out of the rad really cool. To get it that cold comming > out of the rad that cold (assuming you had a big enough rad), the temperature > gradient really has to drop and the rad becomes very inefficient as it is > trying to cool the coolant that extra 20 deg. > > I decided the only efficient way to do it was to have two rads, one after the > interchanger and one before it. I suppose that would work if you were using 2 > evap cores in series, but for me the obvious solution was to use an oil/air > cooler. > > Dave Leonard > >> >> Good points of course, but I still can't help but be drawn to the simplicity >> of having only one scoop, one duct, and one radiator. Even as I type, I'm >> trying to figure out where I can put a bigger radiator (within cosmetic >> limits this time) :-) I'm even warming back up (so to speak) to the idea >> of using the stock 1st gen oil/water exchanger for the single rotor. It was >> pointed out to me that the stock unit took hot water from the heater outlet, >> which doesn't really give the heat exchanger the best chance of success. >> >> If I get Ken's oil/water exchanger, I'll be mighty tempted to hook it up to >> the current two radiators to see how it does on the ground. Since I'm not >> opposed to changing out the evap cores, there might be a way to enlarge the >> capacity some. Barring all that, it'll make a nice paperweight. >> >> Cheers, >> Rusty (now collecting oil coolers instead of manifolds) >> >> Only oil/water exchangers I have seen that work are on boats. They are cooled with COLD water and they work very well. If you are trying to cool hot oil with hot water, I don't think so! Just get an efficient radiator Rusty. Buly