Return-Path: Received: from [204.127.202.55] (HELO sccrmhc11.comcast.net) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 4.2.5) with ESMTP id 593893 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Thu, 06 Jan 2005 18:15:35 -0500 Received-SPF: none receiver=logan.com; client-ip=204.127.202.55; envelope-from=kenpowell@comcast.net Received: from 204.127.205.143 ([204.127.205.143]) by comcast.net (sccrmhc11) with SMTP id <200501062314180110037tpge>; Thu, 6 Jan 2005 23:14:18 +0000 Received: from [166.102.160.133] by 204.127.205.143; Thu, 06 Jan 2005 23:14:17 +0000 From: kenpowell@comcast.net To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: fluidyne oil cooler Date: Thu, 06 Jan 2005 23:14:17 +0000 Message-Id: <010620052314.20524.41DDC647000AF6AE0000502C220076370404040A99019F020A05@comcast.net> X-Mailer: AT&T Message Center Version 1 (Dec 17 2004) X-Authenticated-Sender: a2VucG93ZWxsQGNvbWNhc3QubmV0 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_20524_1105053257_0" --NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_20524_1105053257_0 Content-Type: text/plain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Depends on how much HP you make??? If you make the 180 - 195 that I think you are making I don't think this cooler will work due to the added thickness you mentioned. If you choose to try it anyway because of the good installation location (which seems like a pretty good tradeoff) you could use a C&R oil-to-water cooler as a 'fall-back plan' to get the additional oil cooling you need since your water temps are good and you have excess water cooling. I have a 84 mazda water-to-oil cooler I'll loan you want to try it but I'm not to hopeful for this cooler to help. Al G., does the C&R oil-to-water cooler seem like a reasonable supplementary cooling system to the Fluidyne oil cooler to you? Ken Powell Bryant, Arkansas -------------- Original message -------------- You should be able to get flow rate; pressure drop; heat rejection rating from Fluidyne. Based on my calcs, it would be good to about a steady 120 hp in a rotary, if you get good air flow through it. How can you calculate this without the info you mentioned? How much air flow is "good". What is the temp? I appreciate the thought, but I don't really believe all the calculations in the world will give a real answer when you consider all the variables. It might be interesting, and will certainly be in the ballpark, but you won't really know how it works until you try it. My more simplified way to look at this is that the Fluidyne has the same core volume as the 2nd gen cooler. It is thicker, which reduces the cooling ability, but I also bet that it's more efficient at rejecting heat. In other words, it seems like it should be about equal to the 2nd gen cooler. Since lots of folks are running the 2nd gen cooler, and most are pretty happy with it, then I have to believe that this will work at least reasonably well for me. Since it will stand upright under the engine, I should be able to give it a far superior duct to anything I've ever used. I'm going to try it, but realize that I may take over the record for number of oil cooler mods from Ed. Cheers, Rusty (abandoned calculus long ago) --NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_20524_1105053257_0 Content-Type: text/html Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit

Depends on how much HP you make??? If you make the 180 - 195 that I think you are making I don't think this cooler will work due to the added thickness you mentioned. If you choose to try it anyway because of the good installation location (which seems like a pretty good tradeoff) you could use a C&R oil-to-water cooler as a 'fall-back plan' to get the additional oil cooling you need since your water temps are good and you have excess water cooling. I have a 84 mazda water-to-oil cooler I'll loan you want to try it but I'm not to hopeful for this cooler to help.

Al G., does the C&R oil-to-water cooler seem like a reasonable supplementary cooling system to the Fluidyne oil cooler to you?

Ken Powell
Bryant, Arkansas

-------------- Original message --------------

You should be able to get flow rate; pressure drop; heat rejection rating from Fluidyne. Based on my calcs, it would be good to about a steady 120 hp in a rotary, if you get good air flow through it.

How can you calculate this without the info you mentioned?   How much air flow is "good". What is the temp? I appreciate the thought, but I don't really believe all the calculations in the world will give a real answer when you consider all the variables. It might be interesting, and will certainly be in the ballpark, but you won't really know how it works until you try it.

My more simplified way to look at this is that the Fluidyne has the same core volume as the 2nd gen cooler.  It is thicker, which reduces the cooling ability, but I also bet that it's more efficient at rejecting heat. In other words, it seems like it should be about equal to the 2nd gen cooler. Since lots of folks are running the 2nd gen cooler, and most are pretty happy with it, then I have to believe that this will work at least reasonably well for me. Since it will stand upright under the engine, I should be able to give it a far superior duct to anything I've ever used. I'm going to try it, but realize that I may take over the record for number of oil cooler mods from Ed.

Cheers,

Rusty (abandoned calculus long ago)

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