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Thanks, Kathy....today I completed the last of the installtion....adel clamps, nylon ties, wire protective sheathing, etc. I took the aircraft out and ran it again with only the bottom cowling on it...5000 static rpm's, and the engine ran smoothly. It sounds a little rich at idle only (around 1200 rpm's, but once I get it above that, it is smooth from 1500 to 5000 rpm's. Have to reinstall the top cowling and it's ready for flight #2. Paul Conner, rotary powered SQ2000 in Mobile, AL
----- Original Message ----- From: "kathy" <kathy@atkinsrotary.com>
To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 21, 2004 1:04 PM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: short manifold pictures
Good Looking pictures Paul..
Kathy
-------Original Message-------
From: "Paul" <sqpilot@bellsouth.net>
Subject: [FlyRotary] short manifold pictures
Sent: 21 Dec 2004 03:33:13
I finally got another software program (after computer crash) and was able to cut down the size/pixels of digital photos I took, so here is one of the Atkins straight intake manifold that I just installed on my 13b powered SQ2000 canard aircraft. I'm sure there are more optimum manifolds out there, but at least this one produced 5000 static rpm's with my 3 blade 64 x 78 Performance wood prop. Since the picture was taken, I have installed all fuel lines, throttle cable/bracket, re-routed wiring to injectors and throttle positon sensor, etc. to keep them away from heat, spark plug wires, etc and to just "neaten up" the installation. The stainless steel heat shield is spaced about 3/4 inch above the stock cast iron exhaust manifold, and after 3 engine runs at WOT, the bottom of the throttlebody was only warm to the touch immediately after shutdown. I expected it to be pretty hot, but was pleasantly surprised that it was relatively cool. Perhaps because the fuel and air flowing into the throttlebody helped to keep it cool? The part that really made my day is that there is no after shut-down fuel drip. That was a big concern of mine. Problem solved. After I fly and enjoy the plane a little, I may pull the manifold and have some of the intake areas filled with aluminum weld and take a dremel tool to it to match the ports better, but I think for now I will leave the tinkering to Rusty, and after I fly/enjoy it a bit, go back to tinkering. Thanks to all for the suggestions regarding prop size. Most suggestions are that I go ahead and fly it and record all the performance numbers (now that I can achieve full throttle), and go from there. I may be looking for a problem that doesen't even exist. Paul Conner
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