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From: "John Slade" <sladerj@bellsouth.net>
To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Subject: RE: [FlyRotary] info gathering by newbie
Date: Mon, 20 Dec 2004 23:12:15 -0500
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Hi Jeff,
You didn't get many answers to your questions (yet), so I'll dive in and
attempt to provide some.

> Do I have it right that most of the problems associated with using any
> auto conversion is using non-aircraft hardware in auxiliary equipment?
Not necessarily. It's not a matter of the peripherals being A/C grade. In
fact, the "certified" or "A/C grade" items have been the worst quality parts
I've had. The ELT, for example, has a badly designed bracket made out of
cheap aluminum. Yuk. The Westach aircraft gauge sucked (and its not a vacuum
gauge :). In general I think good quality automotive parts (alternators,
starters etc. are better tested and more reliable than some of their $600
A/C equivalents. Many of us use a/c grade braided hoses and AN hardware
everywhere, but even that's not proven. A lot of rotary flyers use
automotive coolant and oil and fuel hoses, and I haven't heard of one
blowing out yet. (did I miss any?)

I think the 13B oil pressures might blow some aircraft grade coolers. We're
all experimenting here, and all our installations are unique in some way or
other. It's the lack of standards and proven solutions that tends to bite.
Our answer where possible - redundancy. I've had a few problems / failures
while flight testing, but always flew home safely - no glider time yet.

> To get 250hp out of a 13B do you do more wild porting or put on a turbo?
I'll let someone else answer the power questions, but my take on this is
that a turbo avoids a muffler and gets you in that range while still being
able to idle. At least for us pushers a "wild" port could be a problem with
too high an idle on final = high landing speeds. The trick is getting the
right turbo (ask me how I know this) that can handle boost at altitude and
controlling ignition and mixture to avoid detonation. I think the engine
itself can handle the power without a problem.

> Does reliability go way down if you try to get that much out of a 13B or
is it about the
> same if you can keep it cool?
I think the latter, but I'll get back to you on that.

> Will the renesis be a better option?  I guess we are all waiting to see
> how the renesis is going to do.
I think yes, without a doubt. Tracy's proved it works well, and parts will
be less of an issue in the future.

> Are the street rodders or anyone else tinkering with the renesis yet?
I'd be interested in the answer to this myself.

> What's the
> difference in the two versions of the renesis (one power rating for the
> automatic transmission and another for the manual tranny)?  Does the
> higher hp version have different porting or just different
> intake/exhaust manifolds?
I heard from Bruce Turrentine that it doesn't make any difference to us at
our rpm level.

Hope that helps,
John