Return-Path: Received: from [65.54.168.120] (HELO hotmail.com) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 4.2.5) with ESMTP id 493369 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Sun, 31 Oct 2004 17:09:35 -0500 Received-SPF: none receiver=logan.com; client-ip=65.54.168.120; envelope-from=lors01@msn.com Received: from mail pickup service by hotmail.com with Microsoft SMTPSVC; Sun, 31 Oct 2004 14:09:06 -0800 Received: from 65.54.98.159 by BAY3-DAV16.phx.gbl with DAV; Sun, 31 Oct 2004 22:08:11 +0000 X-Originating-IP: [65.54.98.159] X-Originating-Email: [lors01@msn.com] X-Sender: lors01@msn.com From: "Tracy Crook" To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" References: Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: O2 sensor / Rotary Roundup Date: Sun, 31 Oct 2004 17:08:11 -0500 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0136_01C4BF6C.33647010" X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: MSN 9 X-MIMEOLE: Produced By MSN MimeOLE V9.10.0009.2900 Seal-Send-Time: Sun, 31 Oct 2004 17:08:11 -0500 Message-ID: X-OriginalArrivalTime: 31 Oct 2004 22:09:06.0338 (UTC) FILETIME=[3D0B8020:01C4BF96] This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0136_01C4BF6C.33647010 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Another hint on O2 sensors (and spark plugs). Always install them with = anti-seize compound. I like silver (zinc ?) for plugs and copper type = for O2 sensors. I also give O2 sensors a shot of PB Blaster before = putting a wrench on them when removing. Never had a stuck one when = using these measures. Sorry you guys with the flying rotaries couldn't get through. The = weather really was bad north of Florida as reported by the guys (and = girls) who drove through it so you made the right choice. But I was = truly honored by the presence of all the rotor heads who came. Think we = had 40 or so for Barbeque on Saturday and had a really great time. Bill = Schertz' presentation was a tour de force in cooling principles, Kelly = Troyer de-mystified the modification of the Mazda alternator for = external regulator and Richard Sohn brought us up to date on his one = rotor engine, very trick piece of work. =20 Tracy Crook =20 ----- Original Message -----=20 From: BillDube@killacycle.com=20 To: Rotary motors in aircraft=20 Sent: Sunday, October 31, 2004 3:10 PM Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: O2 sensor I tried to install it yesterday but discovered that the bung and = plug are now rusted/welded together - there was no getting the plug out. = In a previous incarnation as a foreign car mechanic, I have = had similar problems getting out broken spark plugs, CV joint bolts, = exhaust manifold studs, etc. Here are the most effective procedures: Heat. It may seem counter-intuitive, but heating the plug = intensely will loosen it. Logic tells you it will expand and get = tighter, but years of experience have showed me that heating the plug = works every time. I have heard lots of good guesses, but no one has come = up with a definitive explanation. If you haven't rounded the head to nothing, and you can still = get a good solid twist on the stuck plug, heat the crap out of it with = an acetylene torch, then it will come right out. If you can get an = impact gun on it, have the gun all ready to go beforehand, so you can = loosen the plug while it is still red hot. A propane torch "kind-of" = works, but does not have nearly the success rate of an acetylene torch. If you have broken the plug or rounded it hopelessly, there is = still hope. Find a strong bolt that is close to the diameter of the = plug, perhaps a tad smaller. (I like to use VW Bug lug bolts.) Get the = impact gun ready. Weld the bolt to the stuck plug and then hit it with = the impact gun quickly, before it has any chance to cool. This works = best with a stick welder, but MIG works too if you turn the current up = and make a wide heavy weld.=20 Of course, ground the welder to the pipe as close as possible = to the plug and disconnect $en$itive electronics.=20 Bill Dube = http://www.killacycle.com/Lights.htm >> Homepage: http://www.flyrotary.com/ >> Archive: http://lancaironline.net/lists/flyrotary/List.html ------=_NextPart_000_0136_01C4BF6C.33647010 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Another hint on O2 sensors (and spark plugs).  Always install = them=20 with anti-seize compound.  I like silver (zinc ?) for plugs = and copper=20 type for O2 sensors.  I also give O2 sensors a shot of PB = Blaster=20 before putting a wrench on them when removing.   Never had=20 a stuck one when using these measures.
 
Sorry you guys with the flying rotaries couldn't get through. The = weather=20 really was bad north of Florida as reported by the guys (and girls) who = drove=20 through it so you made the right choice.  But I was truly honored = by the=20 presence of all the rotor heads who came.  Think we had 40 or so = for=20 Barbeque on Saturday and had a really great time.  Bill Schertz'=20 presentation was a tour de force in cooling principles, Kelly = Troyer=20 de-mystified the modification of the Mazda alternator for external = regulator and=20 Richard Sohn  brought us up to date on his one rotor engine, very = trick=20 piece of work. 
 
Tracy Crook 
 
----- Original Message -----
From: BillDube@killacycle.com =
To: Rotary motors in = aircraft
Sent: Sunday, October 31, 2004 = 3:10=20 PM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: O2 = sensor

 I tried to install it yesterday but discovered that = the bung=20 and plug are now rusted/welded together - there was no getting the = plug out.=20 =

       =  In=20 a previous incarnation as a foreign car mechanic, I have had similar = problems=20 getting out broken spark plugs, CV joint bolts, exhaust manifold = studs, etc.=20 Here are the most effective=20 = procedures:

        = ;Heat.=20 It may seem counter-intuitive, but heating the plug intensely will = loosen it.=20 Logic tells you it will expand and get tighter, but years of = experience have=20 showed me that heating the plug works every time. I have heard lots of = good=20 guesses, but no one has come up with a definitive=20 = explanation.

       &nbs= p;If=20 you haven't rounded the head to nothing, and you can still get a good = solid=20 twist on the stuck plug, heat the crap out of it with an acetylene = torch, then=20 it will come right out. If you can get an impact gun on it, have the = gun all=20 ready to go beforehand, so you can loosen the plug while it is still = red hot.=20 A propane torch "kind-of" works, but does not have nearly the success = rate of=20 an acetylene=20 = torch.

        If=20 you have broken the plug or rounded it hopelessly, there is still = hope. Find a=20 strong bolt that is close to the diameter of the plug, perhaps a tad=20 smaller.  (I like to use VW Bug lug bolts.) Get the impact gun = ready.=20 Weld the bolt to the stuck plug and then hit it with the impact gun = quickly,=20 before it has any chance to cool. This works best with a stick welder, = but MIG=20 works too if you turn the current up and make a wide heavy weld.=20 =

        Of= =20 course, ground the welder to the pipe as close as possible to the plug = and=20 disconnect $en$itive electronics.


Bill Dube <LED@Killacycle.com>

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