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From: "DaveLeonard" <daveleonard@cox.net>
To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Subject: RE: [FlyRotary] Re: Break-in oil?
Date: Sun, 31 Oct 2004 08:56:49 -0800
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Graydon, thanks for the picture.  It was good to meet you at copperstate.
You sure are right about the turbo thing.  I forgot to do that the first
time and the whole engine started running backward.

Dave Leonard

>
>
> Dave you are bang on with the info I have, except for the precautions
> required when starting a turbo when it has been sitting for a
> long time. You
> should remove the intake hose and spin the impellor in the
> correct direction
> and while it is spinning fire the engine for a few seconds. Watch Your
> Fingers!!!! This insures the turbo knows which way to turn. :-).
> I attach a
> photo from copperstate you may enjoy.
>
> Graydon Woods
> Alberta,Canada
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <daveleonard@cox.net>
> To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
> Sent: Monday, October 18, 2004 1:34 AM
> Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Break-in oil?
>
>
> > Bernie, like with lycomings, there is a very strict break-in procedure
> > which must be followed or your engine will never really develop
> full power
> > and may leak a lot of oil.
> >
> > This procedure is well known to anyone who re-builds rotary engines, and
> > was told to me by my cousin Zed who is a stocking clerk for Mazda.
> >
> > Before attempting to start a re-built engine, put TWO squirts of Marvel
> > Mystery Oil into each exhaust port and ONE squirt into each spark plug
> > hole.  Get that straight.  Zed knows a guy who did it the other
> way around
> > and broke all his apex seals on the first engine start!
> >
> > Make sure the plane is tied down because you MUST run it
> between 4000-5000
> > RPM for EXACTLY 1 hour and 10 min.  If you don't do it long engough the
> > oil ring gaskets will not set, but if you do it too long you
> might create
> > too much wear on the sides of the apex seals and they will have
> pre-mature
> > failure.
> >
> > If you are running pre mix the first tank should have a little extra
> > 2-stroke oil (about 2.34 oz. per galon).  It should be a 50/50 mix of 87
> > unleaded and 92 unleaded unless you live above 2000' MSL in which case
> > just use straight 89 unleaded with a splash of 100LL.
> >
> > After the first engine run you should scrape off some the the exhaust
> > residue and disolve it in some MEK for a few hours.  Then pour the MEK
> > through a white coffee filter.  If it turns green, run the engine some
> > more.  If it turns black, you are finished with the break-in,
> if it turns
> > Red, you may as well throw the engine away and get a new one.
> >
> > Never use mineral oil, unless you want to.  Send $15,000 to
> > Textron-Lycoming for a more detailed description and further
> instructions
> > (mostly where to send more money).
> >
> > Good Luck,
> > Dave Leonard (really tired - working all night - please forgive)
> >
> >>
> >> Seems like I remember Tracy C saying he used mineral oil when
> he started
> >> running his new engine. I know this is standard on Lycomings,
> is it also
> >> for flying rotary's?
> >>
> >> bernie kerr
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >>>  Homepage:  http://www.flyrotary.com/
> >>>  Archive:   http://lancaironline.net/lists/flyrotary/List.html
>