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Return-Path: <13brv3@bellsouth.net> Received: from imf25aec.mail.bellsouth.net ([205.152.59.73] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 4.2.5) with ESMTP id 484878 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Sun, 24 Oct 2004 12:44:58 -0400 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=205.152.59.73; envelope-from=13brv3@bellsouth.net Received: from rd ([65.6.194.9]) by imf25aec.mail.bellsouth.net (InterMail vM.5.01.06.11 201-253-122-130-111-20040605) with ESMTP id <20041024164428.KXLL18843.imf25aec.mail.bellsouth.net@rd> for ; Sun, 24 Oct 2004 12:44:28 -0400 From: "Russell Duffy" <13brv3@bellsouth.net> To: "'Rotary motors in aircraft'" Subject: RE: [FlyRotary] Re: oil cooler duct suggestion Date: Sun, 24 Oct 2004 11:44:48 -0500 Message-ID: <013601c4b9e8$c643cd60$6101a8c0@rd> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0137_01C4B9BE.DD6DC560" X-Priority: 3 (Normal) X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook, Build 10.0.6626 Importance: Normal X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2900.2180 In-Reply-To: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0137_01C4B9BE.DD6DC560 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Thanks Al. I've heard that method described before, and don't doubt = that it's the best way to do it. Mercifully, I'm only working with a small amount of fiberglass, so I'll probably stick with my crude but effective method. If I ever say I'm going to build a fiberglass plane, I'm = counting on at least one of our list members to shoot me :-) =20 Cheers, Rusty =20 =20 =20 -----Original Message----- From: Rotary motors in aircraft [mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net] On Behalf Of Al Gietzen Sent: Sunday, October 24, 2004 11:36 AM To: Rotary motors in aircraft Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: oil cooler duct suggestion BTW, Rusty; I know you didn't ask; but as a tip, you could save some = weight by wetting out the cloth on some thin plastic (2 mil drop-cloth works = good), then put plastic over it and squeegee fairly rigorously to remove excess epoxy, then cut the final shape, peel off one side, lay in place, peel = off other side and stipple out any air pockets. Just enough for all the = strands to be thoroughly wetted makes the strongest layups. =20 FWIW, =20 Al ------=_NextPart_000_0137_01C4B9BE.DD6DC560 Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Message

Thanks=20 Al. I've heard that method described before, and don't doubt that = it's the=20 best way to do it. Mercifully, I'm only working with a small = amount of=20 fiberglass, so I'll probably stick with my crude but effective = method. If=20 I ever say I'm going to build a fiberglass plane, I'm counting = on at=20 least one of our list members to shoot me :-)

Cheers,

Rusty

-----Original Message-----
From: Rotary motors in = aircraft=20 [mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net] On Behalf Of Al=20 Gietzen
Sent: Sunday, October 24, 2004 11:36 AM
To: = Rotary=20 motors in aircraft
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: oil cooler duct=20 suggestion

BTW, Rusty; I know you = didn’t ask; but as a=20 tip, you could save some weight by wetting out the cloth on some thin = plastic (2=20 mil drop-cloth works good), then put plastic over it and squeegee fairly = rigorously to remove excess epoxy, then cut the final shape, peel off = one side,=20 lay in place, peel off other side and stipple out any air pockets. Just = enough=20 for all the strands to be thoroughly wetted makes the strongest=20 layups.

FWIW,

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