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From: "gw.plugsup" <gw.plugsup@shaw.ca>
To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 23, 2004 2:53 PM
Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: Break-in oil?
Dave you are bang on with the info I have, except for the precautions required when starting a turbo when it has been sitting for a long time. You should remove the intake hose and spin the impellor in the correct direction and while it is spinning fire the engine for a few seconds. Watch Your Fingers!!!! This insures the turbo knows which way to turn. :-). I attach a photo from copperstate you may enjoy.
Graydon Woods
Alberta,Canada
----- Original Message ----- From: <daveleonard@cox.net>
To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Sent: Monday, October 18, 2004 1:34 AM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Break-in oil?
Bernie, like with lycomings, there is a very strict break-in procedure
which must be followed or your engine will never really develop full power
and may leak a lot of oil.
This procedure is well known to anyone who re-builds rotary engines, and
was told to me by my cousin Zed who is a stocking clerk for Mazda.
Before attempting to start a re-built engine, put TWO squirts of Marvel
Mystery Oil into each exhaust port and ONE squirt into each spark plug
hole. Get that straight. Zed knows a guy who did it the other way around
and broke all his apex seals on the first engine start!
Make sure the plane is tied down because you MUST run it between 4000-5000
RPM for EXACTLY 1 hour and 10 min. If you don't do it long engough the
oil ring gaskets will not set, but if you do it too long you might create
too much wear on the sides of the apex seals and they will have pre-mature
failure.
If you are running pre mix the first tank should have a little extra
2-stroke oil (about 2.34 oz. per galon). It should be a 50/50 mix of 87
unleaded and 92 unleaded unless you live above 2000' MSL in which case
just use straight 89 unleaded with a splash of 100LL.
After the first engine run you should scrape off some the the exhaust
residue and disolve it in some MEK for a few hours. Then pour the MEK
through a white coffee filter. If it turns green, run the engine some
more. If it turns black, you are finished with the break-in, if it turns
Red, you may as well throw the engine away and get a new one.
Never use mineral oil, unless you want to. Send $15,000 to
Textron-Lycoming for a more detailed description and further instructions
(mostly where to send more money).
Good Luck,
Dave Leonard (really tired - working all night - please forgive)
Seems like I remember Tracy C saying he used mineral oil when he started
running his new engine. I know this is standard on Lycomings, is it also
for flying rotary's?
bernie kerr
Homepage: http://www.flyrotary.com/
Archive: http://lancaironline.net/lists/flyrotary/List.html
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