Return-Path: Received: from sccrmhc12.comcast.net ([204.127.202.56] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 4.2.2) with ESMTP id 420571 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Sat, 18 Sep 2004 13:49:33 -0400 Received-SPF: none receiver=logan.com; client-ip=204.127.202.56; envelope-from=n3773@comcast.net Received: from rv8 (c-24-21-140-241.client.comcast.net[24.21.140.241]) by comcast.net (sccrmhc12) with SMTP id <20040918174902012008h2jle> (Authid: n3773@comcast.net); Sat, 18 Sep 2004 17:49:02 +0000 Message-ID: <000901c49da7$c7fafaf0$f18c1518@rv8> Reply-To: "kevin lane" From: "kevin lane" To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" References: Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Mini switches (was: Engine start) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2004 10:48:58 -0700 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0006_01C49D6D.19E32850" X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 6.00.2900.2180 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2900.2180 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0006_01C49D6D.19E32850 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I bought several of the switches from an electronics firm and paid the = $6. the failures I experienced were pure mechanical, they simply fell = apart. I have been very happy with my electric flaps switch. I made an = aluminum extension, a long slender wedge, drilled a hole in the end, = and pro-sealed it on the regular DPDT switch. it is much easier on the = thumb having the mechanical advantage. Kevin Lane Portland, OR e-mail-> n3773@comcast.net web-> http://home.comcast.net/~n3773 (browse w/ internet explorer) ----- Original Message -----=20 From: BillDube@killacycle.com=20 To: Rotary motors in aircraft=20 Sent: Saturday, September 18, 2004 10:04 AM Subject: [FlyRotary] Mini switches (was: Engine start) At 10:12 AM 9/18/2004, you wrote: FWIW - I have had every mini switch in my plane(-6A) eventually fail = by 1000 hrs. I now use these big honkin switches and have no more = problems. I suspect that the switch that comes with the autopilot is = quitting now, but it will be tough to debug or replace. Big, "Click Clack" style toggle switches seem to take more = abuse than the sexy little mini toggles. If you have the room, or are = switching a substantial load, big toggles are generally the better = choice. Regardless, don't buy cheesy Radio Shack switches of any sort. Like nearly everything else, you can get low-quality mini = switches and high-quality mini switches. The high-quality mini switches = cost more than $6 each. I buy switches from Digikey = When selecting a switch, be sure that it is = rated for DC. The environmentally-sealed switches are nice. :^) Also, what often kills a switch is the "kick back" from and = inductive load like a relay or a motor. It is good practice to put a = "snubber" across the motor or relay coil. The snubber consists of a = diode and resistor in series (sometimes a capacitor is added.) Often = folks just use the diode alone. You place a reverse-biased diode across = a motor to catch the inductive kickback when you open the switch that = supplies the power. This greatly reduces the arc across the switch when = you open it. =20 >> Homepage: http://www.flyrotary.com/ >> Archive: http://lancaironline.net/lists/flyrotary/List.html ------=_NextPart_000_0006_01C49D6D.19E32850 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I bought several of the = switches from an=20 electronics firm and paid the $6. the failures I experienced were = pure=20 mechanical, they simply fell apart. I have been very happy with my = electric flaps switch. I made an aluminum extension, a long = slender=20 wedge, drilled a hole in the end, and pro-sealed it on the regular DPDT=20 switch. it is much easier on the thumb having the mechanical=20 advantage.

Kevin Lane Portland, OR
e-mail-> n3773@comcast.net
web-> http://home.comcast.net/~n3773
(browse=20 w/ internet explorer)

----- Original Message -----
From:=20 BillDube@killacycle.com =
To: Rotary motors in = aircraft

Sent: Saturday, September 18, = 2004 10:04=20 AM

Subject: [FlyRotary] Mini = switches (was:=20 Engine start)

At 10:12 AM 9/18/2004, you wrote:

FWIW - I=20 have had every mini switch in my plane(-6A) eventually fail by 1000=20 hrs. I now use these big honkin switches and have no more=20 problems. I suspect that the switch that comes with the = autopilot is=20 quitting now, but it will be tough to debug or replace.

      &n= bsp; Big,=20 "Click Clack" style toggle switches seem to take more abuse than the = sexy=20 little mini toggles. If you have the room, or are switching a = substantial=20 load, big toggles are generally the better choice. Regardless, don't = buy=20 cheesy Radio Shack switches of any=20 = sort.

        Like=20 nearly everything else, you can get low-quality mini switches and = high-quality=20 mini switches. The high-quality mini switches cost more than $6 = each. I=20 buy switches from Digikey <http://www.digikey.com> When selecting a switch, be sure that = it is rated=20 for DC. The environmentally-sealed switches are nice.=20 = :^)

        Also,=20 what often kills a switch is the "kick back" from and inductive load = like a=20 relay or a motor. It is good practice to put a "snubber" across the = motor or=20 relay coil. The snubber consists of a diode and resistor in series = (sometimes=20 a capacitor is added.) Often folks just use the diode alone. You = place a=20 reverse-biased diode across a motor to catch the inductive kickback = when you=20 open the switch that supplies the power. This greatly reduces the arc = across=20 the switch when you open=20 = it.



>> Homepage: http://www.flyrotary.com/ >> Archive: = http://lancaironline.net/lists/flyrotary/List.html

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