|
|
I might as well throw in my experience for the educational benefit of
all. I used a 1 inch hole saw in my drill press with the tank clamped
down. I carefully cut around each tube (fittings sawed off) so as not
to cut too deep. On the first tank, I cut through the outer part of the
next layer and it cost extra to weld up the leaks. On the second tank,
I moved in a little, and cut through the inner part of the next layer,
and it cost even more to weld up the leaks. They were harder to get to,
and part of the end plate had to be cut away to do it. I think a 3/4 or
maybe even a 7/8 inch hole would have worked OK. The bungs are AN-16
with a 3/4 inch ID and I had machined a 1 inch lip on the back side
which fit into the 1 inch hole.
Another suggestion, put a nut on the AN fitting to protect it. One of
mine was scuffed during the welding process. I still don't know how
well it's going to seal.
Bob White
On Wed, 8 Sep 2004 07:24:27 -0700
"Bill Schertz" <Wschertz@ispwest.com> wrote:
I used a "Unibit" step drill to open up for the tube to be welded in,
you can start small, and increase a 1/16" at a time checking for
clearance. Each core may be slightly different, so you should proceed carefully
and measure more than once. Bill Schertz
KIS Cruiser # 4045
----- Original Message -----
From: David Carter [mailto:dcarter@datarecall.net]
Sent: 9/7/2004 5:24:45 PM
To: flyrotary@lancaironline.net
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Photos of Core tanks internals
> Ed, the dimension I'm looking for is the X (across, with "tanks" on
> each side and coolant tubes horizontal), looking down from top of
> core, with tank on each side - what is the left-right (X) dimension
> of, e.g., the top of right tank, i.e., from left side of it where
> the tank and fins meet, over to the right to the side of tank, which
> is curved as we look down on it, and measure to the "wasp
> waist"/narrower part of the tank where the coolant tubes runs left
> from.
> > I'm trying to find out how big a dia tube/fitting can be
> welded/braized onto that plate at top or bottom of "tank".
> > David
> > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
> To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 2004 5:30 PM
> Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Photos of Core tanks internals
> > > > David, I'll check on the thickness of the end plates (I believe
> > that is
> what
> > you ask for the thickness on). But from recollection, its a bit
> > more than 1/8". Regarding welding, actually some of the newer
> > aluminum brazing rods would probably work better. I finally found
> > a radiator shop who repaired radiators and they simply brazed the
> > fittings on. But, clearly Rusty and others had better luck than I
> > did with the welding approach.
> >
> > Ed
> >
> > Ed Anderson
> > RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
> > Matthews, NC
> > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
> > To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
> > Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 2004 4:25 PM
> > Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Photos of Core tanks internals
> >
> >
> > > Ed, great pictures and info!! Thanks a lot.
> > >
> > > The larger tube on my cores is exactly 3/4" OD. The end seems
> > > to have a 1/2" long insert in it - insert has OD of 0.678, which
> > > is the ID of the
> > 3/4"
> > > main tube. If I cut off that 1/2" "tip" of the larger 3/4" OD
> > > tube to eliminate the "insert" (which has a smaller ID of
> > > 0.565), then I'll have
> a
> > > tube with 3/4" OD and .678 ID.
> > >
> > > On the other end cap the tubing is exactly 1/2" OD and about
> > > .460 ID -
> and
> > > has the little filter inside.
> > >
> > > I plan to run my 2 evap cores in parallel - to get greater flow
> > > than
> would
> > > be possible running them in series.
> > > - I will use two home-made splitter blocks, each to have a
> > > standard
> > > radiator hose on one side (attached to engine "hot" outlet or
> > > water
> pump,
> > > respectively) and two smaller 3/4" ID hoses on the other side
> > > (to attach
> > to
> > > evap cores, inlet or outlet, respectively).
> > >
> > > After I modify each core to replace the 1/2" OD tubing with 3/4"
> > > OD, so
> > each
> > > core has a 3/4" ID inlet and a 3/4" ID outlet, these inlets and
> > > outlets
> > will
> > > have an inner area of 0.361 sq inches.
> > > - With two cores, I'll have a combined inlet area (and
> > > outlet
> area)
> > of
> > > 2 times that, or .722 sq inches, to be "fed" by a single
> > > automotive
> > radiator
> > > hose via the 2 splitters.
> > > - Given "required area" of .722 (minimum), the "main single
> > > hoses"
> > and
> > > any associated fittings must have at least .722 sq inch area
> > > which
> equates
> > > to an ID of 0.9588 inches (or more - use of "stock" hose and
> > > fittings
> > sizes
> > > may result in "next size bigger" than 1" ID).
> > > - Looking at just one website for hoses & fittings, a
> > > fitting for
> 1"
> > ID
> > > hose had an inner bore ID of 0.84 inches. To get a fitting bore
> > > ID of approximately 1" requires going to a 1 1/4" ID hose.
> > >
> > > - What is the standard sized water hose used on an RX-7? 1
> > > 1/4"? 1
> > > 1/2"?
> > > . . . . . -- I'll use whatever fits the stock pump and a stock
> radiator,
> > > and run it to my home-made "splitter" blocks.
> > >
> > > - Coming out of the splitter block to my 3/4" OD "inlet"
> > > tube on
> each
> > > core, I'll use smaller "heater hose" of 3/4" ID to slip over
> > > 3/4"OD
> tubes
> > on
> > > cores. I'll select the tubing coming out of/going into my 2
> > > splitter
> > blocks
> > > to be identical to that 3/4" OD tubing on the cores.
> > >
> > > - Using water hose instead of AN fittings, where do I
> > > look/go to
> find
> > > "bungs" on 3/4" OD tubes and 1 1/4" ID hose bungs? I'd want to
> > > use 2
> > water
> > > hose clamps to hold hoses securely. I haven't found a good
> > > website or source for the "bungs" to weld onto the evap cores.
> > > (I'll be putting
> > orange
> > > "fire sleeve" on all hoses - and wiring? - in the engine
> > > compartment.)
> > >
> > > In case I wanted to get even more flow than the 3/4 inch OD
> > > tubing on
> the
> > > evap cores would allow, is there room in those little flat spots
> > > on the
> > end
> > > caps to weld on a fitting or tubing with 1" OD (with approx ID
> > > of 0.964 inches or so if wall thickness is 0.036 + or -)?
> > > - I held my core in my lap with an "end cap" on each side,
> > > the 13
> > > coolant tubes running horizontally left & right; I laid my ruler
> > > on the
> > core
> > > and measured 1" or maybe 1 1/8" from "inside" side of "end cap"
> > > to the narrow (wasp waist) of the segments of the end cap.
> > > . . . . - - Ed, I just reviewed your web 1998 web document on
> > > how many
> > cores
> > > you went thru before you found a good welder and how the low
> > > temp alloy
> of
> > > the cores would melt when using the higher temps required to
> > > weld on the
> > fat
> > > fittings.
> > > . . . . ---- Looks like going to a "max size fitting" of 1" or
> > > so might
> > get
> > > the welding heat too close to the seams and not be worth the
> > > risk of
> > ruining
> > > the core. I'm thinking I'll stick with 3/4" OD tubing on the
> > > cores.
> Just
> > > wondered if you could measure one of those "sample cores" to get
> > > the dimension "perpendicular" to the nominal 3" thickness of the
> > > end caps
> that
> > > is available for welding.
> > >
> > > David
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > From: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
> > > To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
> > > Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 2004 11:38 AM
> > > Subject: [FlyRotary] Photos of Core tanks internals
> > >
> > >
> > > > Well, David, I just went down to the shop through the pouring
> remnants
> > of
> > > > Frances and cut open each side tank of a core I had taken from
> > > > the
> > > junkyard
> > > > years ago.
> > > >
> > > > The photos are attached and speak for themselves - no dividers
> > > > or
> other
> > > > impediments to coolant flow in the tanks - pretty clean
> > > > channel from
> top
> > > to
> > > > bottom. Each "row" has 5 approx 1/8" (perhaps slightly
> > > > larger) dia
> > holes
> > > > that conduct the water through the core to the opposite side
> > > > tank. So
> > 14
> > > > rows * 5 * area of 1/8-3/16" dia hole would give a cross flow
> > > > channel
> > area
> > > > of around 0.86 sq inches to 1.93 sq inches - probably toward
> > > > the
> larger
> > > > figure.
> > > >
> > > > So as Bill suggested they may have redesigned the heat
> > > > exchangers to
> > take
> > > a
> > > > different approach to recondensing the refrigerant calling for
> > > > the
> > divider
> > > > plate. Given the relatively small cross channels, it is my
> > > > opinion
> that
> > a
> > > > serpentine cooler is probably offering considerably more
> > > > resistance to
> > > flow.
> > > > Some of the radiator shop webpages give an estimate of the
> > > > increase in
> > > flow
> > > > resistance of a Serpentine core over the straight through - as
> > > > best I
> > > recall
> > > > it was something like 4 times as best I recall.
> > > >
> > > > So, its clear that not all GM evaporator cores are created the
> > > > same
> way.
> > > > This one was from the an late 80s early 90s Cadillac. I
> > > > looked all
> over
> > > for
> > > > some identifying model number but could not find anything. I
> > > > do
> recall
> > it
> > > > had a yellow sticker with a black C on it when I yanked it.
> > > >
> > > > In any case, it looks like we can not simply order just any GM
> > > > cooler
> > > core.
> > > > I suspect that when they switched over to the more
> > > > environmental
> > friendly
> > > > refrigerant then there could have been some redesign of the
> > > > core, but
> > > just
> > > > speculation on my part.
> > > >
> > > > Here's the photos
> > > >
> > > > Ed.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Ed Anderson
> > > > RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
> > > > Matthews, NC
> > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > > From: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
> > > > To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
> > > > Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 2004 11:55 AM
> > > > Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Water pump problem
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > > Thanks, Ed.
> > > > >
> > > > > I wonder Steve Brooks's core with a "plate" is different
> > > > > from the GM/Harrison cores that I have (Chev'y Caprice).
> > > > > - When I probed my core last night and found no plates
> > > > > in the
> end
> > > cap
> > > > > with the larger of the two welded tubes, I DIDN'T check the
> > > > > other
> > side -
> > > > > those smaller 1/2" OD tubes turn 90 degrees and run about a
> > > > > foot, so
> I
> > > > never
> > > > > probed that side. That is the side that has the little
> > > > > "filter"
> > and/or
> > > > > "expansion jet" thing sitting about an inch down inside. > > > > > Perhaps
> > > there's
> > > > a
> > > > > plate on that side that matches what has been discussed
> > > > > recently.
> > > > >
> > > > > If Steve's core is a typical GM/Harrison core, then I'd like
> > > > > to
> > > understand
> > > > > more about which end "the plate" is in and tell us more
> > > > > about "the
> > tube
> > > > that
> > > > > was removed". I've not yet cut into any of my cores to mod
> > > > > the
> > > fittings,
> > > > so
> > > > > am ignorant of the insides.
> > > > >
> > > > > David
> > > > >
> > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > > > From: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
> > > > > To: "Rotary motors in aircraft"
> > > > > <flyrotary@lancaironline.net> Sent: Tuesday, September 07,
> > > > > 2004 6:54 AM Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Water pump problem
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > > Hey, David, not to worry. We have all hit the "Send"
> > > > > > button on an
> e
> > > > mail
> > > > > or
> > > > > > two and later wondered why we did. {:>)
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Ed
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Ed Anderson
> > > > > > RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
> > > > > > Matthews, NC
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > >> Homepage: http://www.flyrotary.com/
> > > > > >> Archive: > > > > > >http://lancaironline.net/lists/flyrotary/List.html
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> > -----------------------------------------------------------------
> > -----------
> > > ----
> > >
> > >
> > > > >> Homepage: http://www.flyrotary.com/
> > > > >> Archive: > > > > >http://lancaironline.net/lists/flyrotary/List.html
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > >> Homepage: http://www.flyrotary.com/
> > > >> Archive: > > > >http://lancaironline.net/lists/flyrotary/List.html
> >
> >
> >
> > >> Homepage: http://www.flyrotary.com/
> > >> Archive: http://lancaironline.net/lists/flyrotary/List.html
> >
> >
> > > > >> Homepage: http://www.flyrotary.com/
> >> Archive: http://lancaironline.net/lists/flyrotary/List.html
>> Homepage: http://www.flyrotary.com/
>> Archive: http://lancaironline.net/lists/flyrotary/List.html
--
http://www.bob-white.com
N93BD - Rotary Powered BD-4 (soon)
|
|