Bill,
Thanks for
the explanation. That makes allot
of sense. Looks like I’ll have to
pull the cores, and drill through the blocking plate. That would have been a much easier job before the AN-16
bungs were welded on, but I can still get a ¾” hole saw through the opening, so
it should be possible.
Regards,
Steve
-----Original
Message-----
From: Rotary motors in aircraft
[mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net]On Behalf
Of William
Sent: Monday, September 06, 2004
10:50 PM
To: Rotary motors in aircraft
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Water
pump problem
Bear in
mind that the cores were designed for coolant evaporation, not for water flow
heat transfer. It sounds like they had a design that put the liquid coolant in
the bottom of the evaporator, and then relied on percolation, i.e. letting the
fluid boil in the core, with the bubbles forcing the liquid around and up
the core to the exit.
Evaporators
(2-phase heat transfer) are more efficient in a 'flooded' mode, so by having
the plate in the header tank, the liquid could flow into the bottom of the
core, absorb heat, a bubble form and be forced along one of the tubes until it
reaches a riser in the header tank, then out through the top 2". This
would work great for a air-conditioning core, but not for our use.
My
cores were mounted (in the car) with one header tank down where the liquid was
fed, and the other header tank up where the vapor was withdrawn. If his were
mounted with both tubes up (in the car), then the explanation above makes
sense.
In any
case, you need a direct shot from top to bottom in both header tanks in our use
as water coolers.
Bill Schertz
KIS Cruiser # 4045
-----
Original Message -----
To: Rotary
motors in aircraft
Sent: Monday, September 06,
2004 8:35 PM
Subject:
[FlyRotary] Re: Water pump problem
No. It
had one tube in each of the tanks.
Both in the top. One
tank is blocked off by a plate about 2" down from the top. The other tank originally had a tube in
it internally that extended to within an inch or so of the bottom.
Does that make sense ?
I must be
misunderstanding something, because I don't see how the original configuration
could have been using the whole core in the car. Let's forget that for
now though.
You should now
have a tube in each tank. Both tanks should be open from top to
bottom, meaning that you'd have to have drilled a hole through the blocking
plate that was installed in the tank. If you didn't open up the
blocking plate, you're only using the top two inches of the core, which would
explain why that's all that's getting hot.
To
rephrase this another way, one tube should come into the top of one
tank. The liquid running into the tank should be able to go through every
one of the flat tubes that join the tank. The liquid should be able to
come out every one of those flat tubes in the other tank, and go up and
out through the outlet tube. Is that what you have now?
If the above
wasn't clear, I'm afraid we're going to have to resort to drawings
:-)
Cheers,
Rusty (glad
the South FL boys survived)