Return-Path: <13brv3@bellsouth.net> Received: from imf19aec.mail.bellsouth.net ([205.152.59.67] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 4.2) with ESMTP id 395670 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Mon, 06 Sep 2004 16:59:42 -0400 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=205.152.59.67; envelope-from=13brv3@bellsouth.net Received: from rd ([65.6.194.9]) by imf19aec.mail.bellsouth.net (InterMail vM.5.01.06.08 201-253-122-130-108-20031117) with ESMTP id <20040906205911.PECX1789.imf19aec.mail.bellsouth.net@rd> for ; Mon, 6 Sep 2004 16:59:11 -0400 From: "Russell Duffy" <13brv3@bellsouth.net> To: "'Rotary motors in aircraft'" Subject: RE: [FlyRotary] Re: Water pump problem Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2004 15:59:11 -0500 Message-ID: <000001c49454$5dc546b0$6101a8c0@rd> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0001_01C4942A.74EF3EB0" X-Priority: 3 (Normal) X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook, Build 10.0.6626 Importance: Normal In-Reply-To: X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2900.2180 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0001_01C4942A.74EF3EB0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I think also though that the AN16 line provides quite a bit a = restriction as compared with 1-1/2 or 1-3/4 radiator hose. =20 =20 I think that there is less resistance in the core, than there is in the = AN16 hoses, which is why it is not forcing it to the bottom.=20 =20 When you restrict the end of you garden hose, doesn't it force the water = to go farther :-)=20 =20 FWIW, I'm using AN12 on everything. My inlets and outlets are on the bottom, which is the only place they can go and fit in the cowl. Since yours are on top, you won't have to worry about putting in an air bleed = like I did, which is good. =20 =20 BTW, I have no speed reducer on my pulleys, and up until recently (when = one of my adapters started leaking) I had an EWP in series. When I turned = the EWP on without the engine running, the sound of water rushing through = the engine was amazing. It's probably doing the same thing with the engine running, but you just can't hear it. Always great fun to wait until = someone is standing in the hanger looking at the engine, then kick on the EWP = :-) =20 =20 Unless someone has a better idea, I think that I'm going ahead with the tubes in the core. =20 I still think you're going to waste a lot of time and effort on this for nothing. What makes you think the tubes are there for any real = purpose? The cores I got had aluminum tubes welded in place, with special = fittings on top. Out of the 5 cores that I made up, I don't think any two tubes = went the same distance into the tank. My impression is that someone forms = the fitting, and any bends that are needed, then whacks off the tube at some ballpark length. They then stick it into the core until the fitting is = at a prescribed height. I doubt they care how far the tube extends into the tanks, so long is it's far enough to weld, and not so far that it hits = the other end of the tank, or waste tubing. =20 =20 If you just insist on doing the tube thing, May I suggest the = following: Hot liquid rises, which is why we're saying it stays on top. Why not = leave the inlet alone, and put the tube only in the outlet side, so it extends within a couple inches of the bottom. This will be the equivalent of = the ideal system, where hot water comes in the top of one tank, and cooler = water goes out the bottom of the other tank. This is probably more beneficial = for an installation with both fittings on top than it is for both fittings = on the bottom. The downside is that you'll need that air bleed on the = outlet tank. =20 =20 Cheers, Rusty (making the new EWP fittings)=20 =20 =20 ------=_NextPart_000_0001_01C4942A.74EF3EB0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Message
I think=20 also though that the AN16 line provides quite a bit a restriction as = compared=20 with 1-1/2 or 1-3/4 radiator hose.  
 
I think=20 that there is less resistance in the core, than there is in the AN16 = hoses,=20 which is why it is not forcing it to the bottom. 
&nbs= p;
When you = restrict the=20 end of you garden hose, doesn't it force the water to go farther=20 :-) 
&nbs= p;
FWIW, I'm using AN12 on everything.  My = inlets and=20 outlets are on the bottom, which is the only place they can go and fit = in the=20 cowl.  Since yours are on top, you won't have to worry about = putting in an=20 air bleed like I did, which is good. =20
 = ;
BTW, I = have no speed=20 reducer on my pulleys, and up until recently (when one of my adapters = started=20 leaking) I had an EWP in series.  When I turned the EWP on without = the=20 engine running, the sound of water rushing through the engine was = amazing. =20 It's probably doing the same thing with the engine running, but you just = can't=20 hear it.  Always great fun to wait until someone is standing in the = hanger=20 looking at the engine, then kick on the EWP :-) =20

 

Unless=20 someone has a better idea, I think that I’m going ahead with the = tubes in the=20 core.

  

I still think = you're going=20 to waste a lot of time and effort on this for nothing.  =  What makes you think the tubes are there for = any real=20 purpose?  The cores I got had aluminum tubes welded in place, = with=20 special fittings on top.  Out of the 5 cores that I made up, I = don't think=20 any two tubes went the same distance into the tank.  My impression = is that=20 someone forms the fitting, and any bends that are needed, then whacks = off the=20 tube at some ballpark length.  They then stick it into = the core=20 until the fitting is at a prescribed height.  I doubt = they care=20 how far the tube extends into the tanks, so long is it's far = enough to=20 weld, and not so far that it hits the other end of the tank, = or waste=20 tubing.  

 

If you just = insist <G>=20 on doing the tube thing, May I suggest the=20 following:   Hot liquid rises, which is why we're = saying it=20 stays on top.   Why not leave the inlet alone, and put the = tube only=20 in the outlet side, so it extends within a couple inches of the = bottom. =20 This will be the equivalent of the ideal system, where hot water = comes in=20 the top of one tank, and cooler water goes out the bottom of the = other=20 tank.  This is probably more beneficial for an installation=20 with both fittings on top than it is for both fittings on the = bottom. =20  The downside is that you'll need that air bleed on the outlet=20 tank.    

 

Cheers,

Rusty = (making the new=20 EWP fittings) 

 

 

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