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Marvin Kaye wrote:
"Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com> wrote:
"""
Paul, if you have all metal type (NOT NYLON Inserts) lock-nuts for the
bolts and a crush plate with a recess that the heads of the bolts will seat
into preventing them from turning, then it is not necessary to safety
wire the bolts. That is the way I flew my Ross drive and my current RD-1C
drive. However, You must use all metal type lock-nuts!
"""
Interesting. Where did you get that specification from? I was under the impression that the only time all metal locknuts were specified was when heat would be an issue. We have nylok nuts on the prop bolts of the Eagle540, provided and specified by the engine manufacturer. They are torqued as per the specs in AC43-13 (etc) and we haven't seen any problem with them so far during ground runs. If the all-metal jobs are truly better and need to be used to meet some specification, I'd sure like to know about it. This is the first I'd heard of it. Thanks....
<Marv>
Lots of homebuilts (including the 3 I've owned with wood props in around 400 hours of flying) fly with the nylon locknuts. No question that metal is better, but I've never had any problems with nylon.
Maybe the heat issue will be worse with a pusser, but unless you have a lot of radiant energy hitting the prop flange it's hard to imagine having a lot of heat on the flange.
Does anyone know the temperature limit for nylon lock nuts?
Charlie
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