Return-Path: <13brv3@bellsouth.net> Received: from imf21aec.mail.bellsouth.net ([205.152.59.69] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 4.2) with ESMTP id 391942 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Fri, 03 Sep 2004 16:26:56 -0400 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=205.152.59.69; envelope-from=13brv3@bellsouth.net Received: from rd ([65.6.194.9]) by imf21aec.mail.bellsouth.net (InterMail vM.5.01.06.08 201-253-122-130-108-20031117) with ESMTP id <20040903202625.WGLH1791.imf21aec.mail.bellsouth.net@rd> for ; Fri, 3 Sep 2004 16:26:25 -0400 From: "Russell Duffy" <13brv3@bellsouth.net> To: "'Rotary motors in aircraft'" Subject: RE: [FlyRotary] Re: RV-3 for sale cheap Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2004 15:24:37 -0500 Message-ID: <00b701c491f4$08617930$6101a8c0@rd> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_00B8_01C491CA.1F8B7130" X-Priority: 3 (Normal) X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook, Build 10.0.6626 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2900.2180 Importance: Normal In-Reply-To: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_00B8_01C491CA.1F8B7130 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I saw that you have pop rivets in the top, and I was surprised by that. = I guess that I haven't cut one apart to see what is up there, but I = thought that there were water pockets close by, so I never considered drilling = and riveting a bracket to them. =20 =20 Are there only certain areas that you can drill, or is the entire top = fair game as long as you don't get too deep ? =20 Steve Brooks=20 =20 Hi Steve, =20 I can't say they're all the same, but on the ones I have, the whole top, = and bottom (sides are tanks) is just a 1/16" or so aluminum plate. The = first tube is about 5/16" (guessing) in from the plate, so as long as you = don't drill too far, you can drill and pop rivet the plate as much as you = want. You could weld it too. =20 =20 If you use pop rivets, don't ignore Finn's advice like I did . = Either use a lot of aluminum rivets, or use stainless in a lesser quantity. My = oil cooler is fine with lots of aluminum rivets, but the water coolers get a = lot more shaking and abuse. I actually have fewer rivets in them, and = they're also aluminum. So far, I've lost about 4-5 rivet heads from those, so = I'll be converting them to stainless as they break. I will probably add some more as well. I also believe Finn used some epoxy between the support = and the core, which I now believe would have been a good idea. Live and = learn (to trust Finn) :-) =20 Off to the hanger to see what else is leaking. =20 Rusty =20 =20 =20 ------=_NextPart_000_00B8_01C491CA.1F8B7130 Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Message
I saw=20 that you have pop rivets in the top, and I was surprised by that.  I guess that I haven’t = cut one apart to=20 see what is up there, but I thought that there were water pockets close = by, so I=20 never considered drilling and riveting a bracket to them.  =

 

Are=20 there only certain areas that you can drill, or is the entire top fair = game as=20 long as you don’t get too deep = ?

 

Steve=20 Brooks 

&nbs= p;

Hi=20 Steve,

&nbs= p;

I can't = say they're=20 all the same, but on the ones I have, the whole top, and bottom (sides = are=20 tanks) is just a 1/16" or so aluminum plate.  The first tube = is=20 about 5/16" (guessing) in from the plate, so as long as you don't = drill too=20 far, you can drill and pop rivet the plate as much as you want.  = You could=20 weld it too. 

&nbs= p;

If you = use pop rivets,=20 don't ignore Finn's advice like I did <g>.  Either use a = lot of=20 aluminum rivets, or use stainless in a lesser quantity.  My oil = cooler is=20 fine with lots of aluminum rivets, but the water coolers get a lot more = shaking=20 and abuse.  I actually have fewer rivets in them, and they're also=20 aluminum.  So far, I've lost about 4-5 rivet heads from those, so = I'll be=20 converting them to stainless as they break.  I will probably add = some more=20 as well.  I also believe Finn used some epoxy between the support = and the=20 core, which I now believe would have been a good idea.  Live and = learn (to=20 trust Finn) :-)

&nbs= p;

Off to the hanger=20 to see what else is = leaking.

&nbs= p;

Rusty

  

 

 

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