Return-Path: Received: from tomcat.al.noaa.gov ([140.172.240.2] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 4.2) with ESMTP id 389826 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Thu, 02 Sep 2004 10:12:02 -0400 Received-SPF: none receiver=logan.com; client-ip=140.172.240.2; envelope-from=bdube@al.noaa.gov Received: from PILEUS.al.noaa.gov (pileus.al.noaa.gov [140.172.241.195]) by tomcat.al.noaa.gov (8.12.0/8.12.0) with ESMTP id i82EBWuB018371 for ; Thu, 2 Sep 2004 08:11:32 -0600 (MDT) Message-Id: <5.2.1.1.0.20040902075626.027950b8@mailsrvr.al.noaa.gov> X-Sender: bdube@mailsrvr.al.noaa.gov X-Mailer: QUALCOMM Windows Eudora Version 5.2.1 Date: Thu, 02 Sep 2004 08:11:52 -0600 To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" From: Bill Dube Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: foam-sicle (new ducts) In-Reply-To: Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed I've built a bunch of stuff with composites. For large objects that will retain the foam inside, the moldless construction is a very practical option. Conversely, for hollow objects of any manageable size, I have found that it is best to go the extra step to make a mold. The finished part comes out so much better. You can also make duplicates. In your situation you would coat the plugs you have made with a couple of thin layers of epoxy and cloth. You then finish the surface to look like the final part. (I like to put a coat of automotive clear coat on last.) If needed, make some sort of parting line (flange) with Formica sheet. Wax it up. Spray on some PVA. http://www.fibreglast.com/showproducts-category-Mold+Releases-23.html Next, spray on (or roll on) gel coat. Then build the mold using chop and polyester resin. Pop off the mold with compressed air.