Return-Path: Received: from mtiwmhc13.worldnet.att.net ([204.127.131.117] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 4.2) with ESMTP id 371244 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Thu, 19 Aug 2004 14:22:15 -0400 Received-SPF: none receiver=logan.com; client-ip=204.127.131.117; envelope-from=keltro@att.net Received: from 204.127.135.59 ([204.127.135.59]) by worldnet.att.net (mtiwmhc13) with SMTP id <2004081918211711300sc6loe>; Thu, 19 Aug 2004 18:21:23 +0000 Received: from [209.247.222.107] by 204.127.135.59; Thu, 19 Aug 2004 18:21:38 +0000 From: keltro@att.net (Kelly Troyer) To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: which book to buy? Date: Thu, 19 Aug 2004 18:21:38 +0000 Message-Id: <081920041821.3267.4124EFB2000650C700000CC32160280651019D9B040A05@att.net> X-Mailer: AT&T Message Center Version 1 (Jul 19 2004) X-Authenticated-Sender: a2VsdHJvQGF0dC5uZXQ= MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_3267_1092939698_0" --NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_3267_1092939698_0 Content-Type: text/plain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Ernest, Snap me a photo (up close) of your front cover including the oil metering pump mount pad. What do you know about this 13B? Has it been overhauled? Has there been any mixing and matching of parts from different year models,etc? Do you have any way of finding out what year donor car the engine came from? Perhaps we can figure out what year engine came from without opening it. On that note you can determine rotor model year by examining the combustion cavity. The 86-89-1/2 have the cavity cast in the rotor face. The 89-1/2-95 have the cavity machined in the rotor face. FWIW -- Kelly Troyer Dyke Delta/13B/RD1C/EC2 -------------- Original message from echristley@nc.rr.com: -------------- > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Jim Brewer > Date: Thursday, August 19, 2004 9:28 am > Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: which book to buy? > > > I would recommend that you download the factory > manual for your > > year > > off the internet. You can then print the pages > you need and take > > them > > to the shop. Email me with the year and I can > help you. > > > > Jim Brewer > > Albemarle, NC > > > > That was a great idea. I found a copy in just a few > minutes. That answers a couple of questions. I > also found the Haynes manuals at only 12.95 ea. > > http://www.discountautorepairmanuals.com > Now I have a question on counter weights. The > engine came with the manual transmission clutch > assembly on the back, and a automatic transmission > flywheel bolted to the front (to be used with a > front mounted starter). The clutch assembly is a > HUGE chunk of cast iron that will throw my CG all > out of whack. I see three choices at this point: > > 1)Find an automatic flywheel and counterbalance like > everyone else (where's the fun in THAT). > > 2) Put this manual flywheel on a lathe and see how > much weight I can shave off of it. I'd drill out > the rivets in the clutch plate, drill and tap the > flywheel and bolt them directly together so that the > torque dampeners still worked. This is the sort of > idea I get late in the evening when I've been alone > in the garage for to long. (MEK? What MEK? I don't > smell no MEK anymore.) > > 2)Find a counterbalance for the flywheel I have. > This is probably the best option, but I believe to > do this I have to know what rotors I have? --NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_3267_1092939698_0 Content-Type: text/html Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit

Ernest,

Snap me a photo (up close) of your front cover including the

oil metering pump mount pad. What do you know about this

13B? Has it been overhauled? Has there been any mixing and

matching of parts from different year models,etc? Do you have

any way of finding out what year donor car the engine came from?

Perhaps we can figure out what year engine came from without

opening it. On that note you can determine rotor model year by

examining the combustion cavity. The 86-89-1/2 have the cavity

cast in the rotor face. The 89-1/2-95 have the cavity machined

in the rotor face. FWIW

--
Kelly Troyer
Dyke Delta/13B/RD1C/EC2

-------------- Original message from echristley@nc.rr.com: --------------

>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jim Brewer
> Date: Thursday, August 19, 2004 9:28 am
> Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: which book to buy?
>
> > I would recommend that you download the factory
> manual for your
> > year
> > off the internet. You can then print the pages
> you need and take
> > them
> > to the shop. Email me with the year and I can
> help you.
> >
> > Jim Brewer
> > Albemarle, NC
> >
>
> That was a great idea. I found a copy in just a few
> minutes. That answers a couple of questions. I
> also found the Haynes manuals at only 12.95 ea.
>
> http://www.discountautorepairmanuals.com

> Now I have a question on counter weights. The
> engine came with the manual transmission clutch
> assembly on the back, and a automatic transmission
> flywheel bolted to the front (to be used with a
> front mounted starter). The clutch assembly is a
> HUGE chunk of cast iron that will throw my CG all
> out of whack. I see three choices at this point:
>
> 1)Find an automatic flywheel and counterbalance like
> everyone else (where's the fun in THAT).
>
> 2) Put this manual flywheel on a lathe and see how
> much weight I can shave off of it. I'd drill out
> the rivets in the clutch plate, drill and tap the
> flywheel and bolt them directly together so that the
> torque dampeners still worked. This is the sort of
> idea I get late in the evening when I've been alone
> in the garage for to long. (MEK? What MEK? I don't
> smell no MEK anymore.)
>
> 2)Find a counterbalance for the flywheel I have.
> This is probably the best option, but I believe to
> do this I have to know what rotors I have?

--NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_3267_1092939698_0--