Return-Path: Received: from marvkaye.olsusa.com ([207.30.195.40]) by ns1.olsusa.com (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 ID# 0-64832U3500L350S0V35) with ESMTP id com for ; Fri, 29 Dec 2000 11:37:18 -0500 Message-Id: <5.0.0.25.2.20001229112309.045ceba0@olsusa.com> Date: Fri, 29 Dec 2000 11:45:42 -0500 To: lancair.list@olsusa.com From: Marvin Kaye Subject: Re: Small tail 360 In-Reply-To: <10.6c636e9.277e117e@aol.com> X-Mailing-List: lancair.list@olsusa.com Reply-To: lancair.list@olsusa.com Mime-Version: 1.0 <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> << Lancair Builders' Mail List >> <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >> >there must be 1/8" between the ribs and the inside of the lower skin close to >the leading edge. ....snip... >is this acceptable and I should build up the ribs with flox/micro to meet the >skin? Jim, After doing the 1/4" coring of the ribs I would just go ahead and do the initial flox release with 2 layers of duct tape on the inside skin, and after it's cured sand the squeezed-out flox flush with the sides of the ribs. If the unsupported (flox only) area is longer than a couple of inches you might want to do a "foundation" 2-BID layup tying it onto the rib sides which you'll want to trim flush with the skin-mating surface of your flox. Then follow up with the capstrip release (don't forget to replace the 2 layers of duct tape with a single layer of packaging tape on the inner skin) and the additional 2-BID that wraps from the capstrips onto the rib sides, as per the manual. I'm confident this will give you all the strength you need. Don't forget to drill your vent holes. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> LML website: http://www.olsusa.com/Users/Mkaye/maillist.html LML Builders' Bookstore: http://www.buildersbooks.com/lancair Please send your photos and drawings to marvkaye@olsusa.com. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>