Mailing List lml@lancaironline.net Message #70114
From: <Sky2high@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [LML] Re: Undercarriage bolt clearance
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2014 08:16:18 -0400 (EDT)
To: <lml@lancaironline.net>
Rob,
 
Bummer.
 
Grinding down the bolt head (and rounding it) is a possibility because of its use in shear - as long as it cannot ever catch on GM4 - especially when the gear comes down.
 
You could revert to the screen door springs (GM10) and rid yourself of the rat-trap springs and the washers you used to make that work.
 
Scott
 
In a message dated 6/3/2014 6:56:10 A.M. Central Daylight Time, stevens5@swiftdsl.com.au writes:

Scott & Aaron,

 

You guys got me thinking around this problem a lot more. So I took some more measurements, and now think I have worked out what is wrong. It appears the original builder placed the rear face of the  GM 13 about ¼” further back than the rear face of GM 12. (This is a very early kit. I think later kits came with the GM 13 already installed, if I understand correctly). This has resulted in the gear leg and the GM 4 not being parallel when the gear leg is in the wheel well.

 

The solution is not going to be easy however. Firstly because I have already incorporated the support brace for the GM 13 between it and the upper spar cap, and secondly because even if I fix that problem, the rear face of the GM 12 would need to be set at a slightly different angle (in relation to the lateral axis of the aircraft) to take up the new alignment of the GM 4. As it is , the AN4-13A bolts which bolt the GM 12 to the GM 4 are only just long enough, and the top ones which have to be placed with the heads to the front only just fit into the space between the spar web and the front face of the  GM 12 when installing them. So installing longer bolts appears impossible. Thus I can’t simply build up the rear face of GM 12 with a couple more BID to correct the misalignment. The only other option I can see would be to grind away the 2 bid and ½” phenolic which make up the GM 12, to the correct angle, and then re-apply 2 bid over that. Given the significance of this structure to the integrity of the whole undercarriage, I am not sure this is an acceptable solution.

 

As I said earlier, I don’t have any engineering qualifications, so I am only guessing at the structural issues all of this raises. I know that the simplest solution is to grind the bolt heads down, but I am again only guessing whether this would compromise anything that really matters.

 

Ah, the joys of home building!

 

Thanks guys for your support.

 

Rob

 

From: Lancair Mailing List [mailto:lml@lancaironline.net] On Behalf Of marv@lancair.net
Sent: Tuesday, 3 June 2014 2:14 AM
To: Lancair Mailing List
Subject: [LML] Re: Undercarriage bolt clearance

 




Posted for Aaron Collins <nwacollins@centurytel.net>:


> Rob, Scott,
>
> Could this be a possible solution and/or addition? . . .
>
> If the original builder had to add any BID between the aft GM5 plate and
>the forward face of the rear center spar to take up any fore to aft slack of
>the GM1 weldment, could that BID be removed to gain some clearance room? Of
>course, you would probably have to add back the same bid to the aft face of
>the GM12 and GM13 phenolic mounting points so as to take up that same fore to
>aft slack that existed originally.
>
> If there is BID behind the GM5 and you remove it for clearance, the
>original bolts mounting the GM5 through the aft spar may now be a bit too
>long. Scott is always good to remind us about proper bolt length so check
>that thread count.
>
> Regards,
>
> Aaron

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