Toe out is an unstable condition.

The jury seems to still be out on that subject. I can find experienced pilots who swear by either toe-in or toe-out. Since my toe-out condition is only a fraction of a degree, I'm just going to leave it alone for now. If it becomes a problem later on, I'll fix the 0.6º tire with a shim at the base of the axle. The 0.2º isn't worth messing with. I want to get this plane flying sometime before I die (grin).

2.  If these are the original Matco wheels, note that the pin bearing races are aligned conically.  Thus, one needs to make sure the axle nut (with washer on the inside shoulder and under the nut) is snugged tight enough to keep the bearings properly supporting the wheel.  Loose wheels will destroy the bearings (nose wheel included).  The usual rule is that they are properly tight if the wheel will not make a complete revolution when hand spun whilst on jacks.  Remember to make sure the bearings are packed with appropriate grease.

Yes, I have the original Matco wheels and the original Rosenhan brakes. I've adjusted the axle nuts so the tire will spin 1-1/4 turns by hand. The bearings are snug that way, yet it leaves a little room for thermal expansion. We saw what happened when I turned the axle nut one flat beyond that point and it wasn't pretty. Yes, the bearings are well packed with high-temperature grease. I checked that a few hours ago.

3. The brake pad float bushings should allow the pad mounts to move freely (SS not rusty steel) and properly positioned so that relaxing brake pedal pressure causes no pressure on the pad to the rotor.

Check.

4. Remember that when steering - one toe presses (or just taps) the inside-the-turn pedal whilst the other foot holds the rudder pedal steady so that you are not slamming the rudder over.

That's the way I do it, but after all these years of using only brakes to steer the plane, I find I have to retrain my mind to stay off the brakes at over 30 KTs and let the rudder do the steering.

Thanks for the sage comments.