Bill,
It sounds like you've done your research and your solution is a good one.Now that you mention it, I've seen the hose clamp method before, although with the lock wire simply wrapped around the "barrel" of the hose clamp. I'm sure the automotive filter has enough flow capacity. I'd be totally confident. Good work.
Gary
Gary/Colyn -
The 320 I built has the 'short' engine mount, which doesn't provide =
nearly enough clearance for an aviation filter. I wasn't about to punch =
a hole in the firewall or resort to a right angle adapter, so I checked =
automotive filters and identified the Mobil M1-107 as small enough to =
install in the available space and having a gasket which matches the =
Lycoming spin-on's sealing surface. I didn't check the 107's flow =
rating, but it's applications include GM V-8 engines up to 364 cid, so I =
felt comfortable that it could handle the flow rate in my 4
cylinder, =
320 cid Lycoming. I'm not knowledgeable of aviation versus automotive =
oil filter pressure ratings, but Mobil claims that the M1 "withstands up =
to nine times the normal system operating pressure" and that seems =
pretty high to me (I've also never heard, or read, of even the cheapest =
automotive
filter rupturing). On top of all that, it's functioned =
flawlessly in my 320 for over ten years and I believe Mobil's claim that =
it "removes more contaminants than conventional filters using an =
advanced synthetic fiber blend filter media". I think it's great that we =
experimentals can take advantage of some modern, advanced automotive =
technology.
As for lockwiring, I drilled a 1/32" hole through the hex head of a =
Breeze clamp, then snugly tighten the clamp around the base of the =
filter and lockwire the hex head to a 1/32" hole drilled in a small fin =
at the rear of the oil temperature probe housing.=20
Bill Rumburg
N403WR (Sonic bOOm)