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From: Sky2high@aol.com
Full-name: Sky2high
Message-ID: <bd1dd.18976c14.409a77a6@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 6 May 2014 13:36:39 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: [LML] Re: [LNC2] Fast taxi testing - found the problem
To: lml@lancaironline.net
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1.  There are tapered shims available - Ck the wheel/axle manufacturer  or=
=20
someone like aircraft spruce.  Toe out is an unstable  condition.
=20
2.  If these are the original Matco wheels, note that the pin bearing =20
races are aligned conically.  Thus, one needs to make sure the axle nut  (w=
ith=20
washer on the inside shoulder and under the nut) is snugged tight enough  t=
o=20
keep the bearings properly supporting the wheel.  Loose wheels will  destro=
y=20
the bearings (nose wheel included).  The usual rule is that they  are=20
properly tight if the wheel will not make a complete revolution when  hand =
spun=20
whilst on jacks.  Remember to make sure the bearings are packed  with=20
appropriate grease.
=20
3. The brake pad float bushings should allow the pad mounts to move freely =
=20
(SS not rusty steel) and properly positioned so that relaxing brake pedal =
=20
pressure causes no pressure on the pad to the rotor.
=20
4. Remember that when steering - one toe presses (or just  taps) the i
nside-the-turn pedal whilst the other foot holds the rudder  pedal steady s=
o that=20
you are not slamming the rudder over.
=20
Good Luck
=20
Grayhawk=20
=20
=20
In a message dated 5/6/2014 12:06:29 P.M. Central Daylight Time, =20
snopercod@comporium.net writes:

This  morning I checked the alignment of the MLG wheels and they weren't=20
off by too  much: 0.2=BA toe-out on the right wheel and 0.6=BA toe out on t=
he left=20
wheel.  That's probably not enough to worry about but I may try and correct=
=20
it if I  can find an easy way.

I did discover the real problem, though. When I  put the plane up on jacks=
=20
and spun the wheels, the left main and nose both  spun about 1-1/4 turns.=
=20
The right main would hardly turn at all. The  axle nut on the right wheel w=
as=20
one flat too tight. The wheel was  dragging and my brand new tire had=20
several flat spots on it. When I loosened  the axle nut, the wheel turned f=
reely=20
so it wasn't the brakes per se. I DO  need to inspect the brakes on that si=
de=20
as well because things got pretty hot  over there.

I'm just glad it's not the oleo strut!

Do we have an  end-play specification for tightening the axle nuts?

Thanks for all the  suggestions, everybody --


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<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3DISO-8859-1" http-equiv=3DContent-Type=
>
<META name=3DGENERATOR content=3D"MSHTML 11.00.9600.16661"></HEAD>
<BODY id=3Drole_body style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; COLOR: #=
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bottomMargin=3D7 leftMargin=3D7 rightMargin=3D7 topMargin=3D7><FONT id=3Dro=
le_document=20
color=3D#000000 size=3D2 face=3DArial>
<DIV>1.&nbsp; There are tapered shims available - Ck the wheel/axle manufac=
turer=20
or someone&nbsp;like aircraft spruce.&nbsp; Toe out is an unstable=20
condition.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>2.&nbsp; If these are the original Matco wheels, note that the pin bea=
ring=20
races are aligned conically.&nbsp; Thus, one needs to make sure the axle nu=
t=20
(with washer on the inside shoulder and under the nut) is snugged tight eno=
ugh=20
to keep the bearings properly supporting the wheel.&nbsp; Loose wheels will=
=20
destroy the bearings (nose wheel included).&nbsp; The usual rule is that th=
ey=20
are properly tight if&nbsp;the wheel will not make a complete revolution wh=
en=20
hand spun whilst on jacks.&nbsp; Remember to make sure the bearings are pac=
ked=20
with appropriate grease.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>3. The brake pad float bushings should allow the pad mounts to move fr=
eely=20
(SS not rusty steel) and properly positioned so&nbsp;that relaxing brake pe=
dal=20
pressure causes no pressure on the pad to the rotor.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>4. Remember that when steering&nbsp;- one toe presses (or just=20
taps)&nbsp;the inside-the-turn pedal whilst the other foot holds the rudder=
=20
pedal steady so that you are not slamming the rudder over.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Good Luck</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Grayhawk&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV>In a message dated 5/6/2014 12:06:29 P.M. Central Daylight Time,=20
snopercod@comporium.net writes:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue 2px solid">=
<FONT=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" color=3D#000000 size=3D2 face=3DA=
rial>This=20
  morning I checked the alignment of the MLG wheels and they weren't off by=
 too=20
  much: 0.2=BA toe-out on the right wheel and 0.6=BA toe out on the left wh=
eel.=20
  That's probably not enough to worry about but I may try and correct it if=
 I=20
  can find an easy way.<BR><BR>I did discover the real problem, though. Whe=
n I=20
  put the plane up on jacks and spun the wheels, the left main and nose bot=
h=20
  spun about 1-1/4 turns. The right main would hardly turn at all. <B><BIG>=
The=20
  axle nut on the right wheel was one flat too tight</BIG></B>. The wheel w=
as=20
  dragging and my brand new tire had several flat spots on it. When I loose=
ned=20
  the axle nut, the wheel turned freely so it wasn't the brakes per se. I D=
O=20
  need to inspect the brakes on that side as well because things got pretty=
 hot=20
  over there.<BR><BR>I'm just glad it's not the oleo strut!<BR><BR>Do we ha=
ve an=20
  end-play specification for tightening the axle nuts?<BR><BR>Thanks for al=
l the=20
  suggestions, everybody --<BR><BR></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV></FONT></BODY>=
</HTML>
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