Return-Path: Received: from www.sequoianet.com ([206.242.77.3]) by truman.olsusa.com (Post.Office MTA v3.1.2 release (PO203-101c) ID# 0-44819U2500L250S0) with ESMTP id AAA18963 for ; Wed, 30 Sep 1998 09:28:22 -0400 Received: from inet001.cardell.com (INET001.sequoianet.com [207.87.248.2]) by www.sequoianet.com (Post.Office MTA v3.1.2 release (PO205-101c) ID# 0-51638U1000L1000S0) with SMTP id AAA484 for ; Wed, 30 Sep 1998 09:31:50 -0400 Received: from ccMail by inet001.cardell.com (ccMail Link to SMTP R8.00.01) id AA907162393; Wed, 30 Sep 98 09:33:18 -0500 Message-Id: <9809309071.AA907162393@inet001.cardell.com> Date: Wed, 30 Sep 98 09:26:03 -0500 From: To: Subject: Re:Alternator Wiring X-Mailing-List: lancair.list@olsusa.com Mime-Version: 1.0 <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> << Lancair Builders' Mail List >> <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >> I'm wondering how people are connecting the alternator to the wiring system - specifically the main feed on the 360s. I have the B&C 60 Amp alternator (also the B&C linear regulator), 8 gage shielded Tefzel wire and a B&C recommended 80Amp inline fuse all sitting on my bench. Is it fine to go directly to battery positive (or similar node) with the fuse I have (or even without a fuse)? Reason I ask is that it appears the 8-gage wire is good for 73Amps so I wonder what good the 80 Amp fuse will be. Incidentally, the factory wired the panel with an alternator circuit breaker (I have both a 35A and 50A breaker I can use) that is ready to take the alternator feed if that is the way to go. The B&C guy thought the 50A breaker didn't make sense given that it is a 60A alternator. I look forward to hearing from the electrical people out there. What a great brain trust this is. Ed de Chazal Rochester, Michigan