X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com Return-Path: Sender: To: lml@lancaironline.net Date: Tue, 08 Oct 2013 09:41:55 -0400 Message-ID: X-Original-Return-Path: Received: from mailout04.yourhostingaccount.com ([65.254.254.70] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 6.0.7) with ESMTP id 6506607 for lml@lancaironline.net; Tue, 08 Oct 2013 09:30:26 -0400 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=65.254.254.70; envelope-from=SRS0=tOwIB1=TS=airframesinc.com=brad@yourhostingaccount.com Received: from mailscan18.yourhostingaccount.com ([10.1.15.18] helo=mailscan18.yourhostingaccount.com) by mailout04.yourhostingaccount.com with esmtp (Exim) id 1VTXMI-0002L5-ET for lml@lancaironline.net; Tue, 08 Oct 2013 09:29:54 -0400 Received: from impout02.yourhostingaccount.com ([10.1.55.2] helo=impout02.yourhostingaccount.com) by mailscan18.yourhostingaccount.com with esmtp (Exim) id 1VTXLv-00036z-4t for lml@lancaironline.net; Tue, 08 Oct 2013 09:29:31 -0400 Received: from authsmtp17.yourhostingaccount.com ([10.1.18.17]) by impout02.yourhostingaccount.com with NO UCE id adVt1m0040N5tVm01dVtGT; Tue, 08 Oct 2013 09:29:53 -0400 X-Authority-Analysis: v=2.0 cv=HIVB5/Rv c=1 sm=1 a=HGMQmSJeTODcyIIOOD8qAg==:17 a=eVmwlQb-OvUA:10 a=tucqI93A0MAA:10 a=-jJjFhJq1GgA:10 a=27qnZCq6AAAA:8 a=vpnvMzt3OYAA:10 a=Ia-xEzejAAAA:8 a=jJrOw3FHAAAA:8 a=SDsdGpcx5ARIPAxTNMYA:9 a=wPNLvfGTeEIA:10 a=pQtlzSjw8oMA:10 a=eabnt9pGaVEA:10 a=k1ZXgcqWoEYA:10 a=EzXvWhQp4_cA:10 a=FU4QsWcZpzsA:10 a=NWVoK91CQyQA:10 a=pGLkceISAAAA:8 a=5zneIvN8rm31e2oa6FsA:9 a=_W_S_7VecoQA:10 a=MSl-tDqOz04A:10 a=5O-fi0kZfaXf63RI:21 a=ayZJSlMgWVhgG3n+ZwULew==:117 X-EN-OrigOutIP: 10.1.18.17 X-EN-IMPSID: adVt1m0040N5tVm01dVtGT Received: from adsl-74-226-93-150.mem.bellsouth.net ([74.226.93.150]:55462 helo=BradPC) by authsmtp17.yourhostingaccount.com with esmtpa (Exim) id 1VTXMG-0002K6-JZ for lml@lancaironline.net; Tue, 08 Oct 2013 09:29:53 -0400 X-Original-Message-ID: From: "Brad Simmons" X-Original-To: "Lancair Mailing List" References: In-Reply-To: Subject: Re: [LML] Cabin door strut on IV series X-Original-Date: Tue, 8 Oct 2013 08:29:50 -0500 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_01E6_01CEC400.8E1EA460" X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Windows Mail 6.0.6002.18197 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.0.6002.18417 X-Antivirus: avast! (VPS 131008-0, 10/08/2013), Outbound message X-Antivirus-Status: Clean X-EN-UserInfo: 083c580f26f2276ef4ed2a347163d77c:931c98230c6409dcc37fa7e93b490c27 X-EN-AuthUser: brad@airframesinc.com X-Original-Sender: "Brad Simmons" X-EN-OrigIP: 74.226.93.150 X-EN-OrigHost: adsl-74-226-93-150.mem.bellsouth.net This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_01E6_01CEC400.8E1EA460 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable John, I could not view your YouTube video; it asked for a log in... Door strut damage is becoming a common item as the fleet ages. We are = seeing problems on probably a 3rd of the planes that we service. There = have also been at least a couple of cracked windows possibly attributed = to the door strut stress placed on the door.=20 Assuming your ball and socket alignment isn't so bad that the range or = motion is exceeded, the other common issue is the stud wallowing out the = hole through the carbon frame. Once it begins to move around, the = threads will quickly open up the hole diameter, and as the assembly = becomes loose, the socket will either pop off, or damage the fingers in = the socket. There's more than one kind of ball and socket floating around out there, = also. Some don't have the same amount of motion as others, so if your = replacement strut did not come from Lancair, make sure that the similar = ends will actually allow the needed rotation.=20 Adding a strap to the door to allow you to cushion the opening is a good = idea also. I still see folks that land, unlatch the door and just push = it up and allow it to open on it's own (and you know who you are!!!). I = can just about guarantee you that the ball studs will be loose in their = composite mounts. Brad Simmons Airframes Inc. 39 Airport Rd. Milan, TN 38358 731-686-3610 731-686-3613 fax www.airframesinc.com ----- Original Message -----=20 From: John Barrett=20 To: lml@lancaironline.net=20 Sent: Tuesday, October 08, 2013 6:55 AM Subject: [LML] Cabin door strut on IV series Hi all, I have to say that my first attendance to a LOBO fly in was awesome ( = to use my children's and their children's cliche). The chance to meet = so many enthusiastic, knowledgeable and fun Lancair folks provided WAY = more benefit than I ever would have imagined. Thank you to the board, = the vendors, presenters and to everyone involved. I loved it and so did = my wife, Anne. =20 I saw some folks examining a IVP door strut on Saturday I think. The = attachment at the frame was very loose so that the ball stud was = flopping around. Close inspection showed that the door frame was = cracked under the stud. I'm not sure whose plane this was but I think = it is the one that vibration measurement equipment had recently been = attached to for studies. The door strut triggered memories of similar occurrence with my strut = a couple of years ago prior to first flight. I would guess the smart = folks who noticed this also figured out the reason for the failure, but = just in case I will share what I found and how I dealt with it. The problem with the door strut is that the arc described by the strut = during opening and closing exceeds the range of motion built into the = ball stud socket on the lower end of the strut. Therefore the door = frame is wrenched back and forth during door operation when the stud is = attached to the door frame without modification to the frame. There is = a plane you can find by experimentation or by mathematical exercise if = you are so gifted and inclined to pursue (I am not) that will allow the = socket to move within the design limits and therefore not stress the = stud and the door frame. Once this plane is determined, you can use a = small washer of wood, foam or other material to shape the door frame = where the stud penetrates the frame. You'll need to cut out a bit of = the frame to accomplish this. since my frame was broken here it made = that part simple. Super glue or hot glue can hold the form in place. = Then lay up two BID of carbon fibre cloth over the form and remove the = form material when done. Lay up several layers on the back side to = strengthen the mod and to secure it by sandwiching on both sides of = remaining frame.=20 It gets a little more complicated because the back side in my case was = in very tight quarters. When complete I found that the screw stud on the = ball stud part was too short. I was able to go online and find a = replacement at very nominal cost and that had plenty of thread length = for the purpose. I have uploaded a video to YouTube of the way the attachment looks = now. See link below. I hope it helps someone. http://youtu.be/d3sBMgVncMM John Barrett N31VP Sent from my iPad ------=_NextPart_000_01E6_01CEC400.8E1EA460 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
John,
I could not view your YouTube video; it = asked for a=20 log in...
 
Door strut damage is becoming a common = item as the=20 fleet ages. We are seeing problems on probably a 3rd of the planes that = we=20 service. There have also been at least a couple of cracked windows = possibly=20 attributed to the door strut stress placed on the door.
Assuming your ball and socket alignment = isn't so=20 bad that the range or motion is exceeded, the other common issue is the = stud=20 wallowing out the hole through the carbon frame. Once it begins to move = around,=20 the threads will quickly open up the hole diameter, and as the assembly = becomes=20 loose, the socket will either pop off, or damage the fingers in the=20 socket.
There's more than one kind of ball and = socket=20 floating around out there, also. Some don't have the same amount of = motion as=20 others, so if your replacement strut did not come from Lancair, make = sure that=20 the similar ends will actually allow the needed rotation. =
Adding a strap to the door to allow you = to cushion=20 the opening is a good idea also. I still see folks that land, unlatch = the door=20 and just push it up and allow it to open on it's own (and you know who = you=20 are!!!). I can just about guarantee you that the ball studs will be = loose in=20 their composite mounts.
 
Brad Simmons
Airframes Inc.
39 Airport Rd.
Milan, TN  = 38358
731-686-3610
731-686-3613 fax
www.airframesinc.com
----- Original Message -----
From:=20 John = Barrett=20
Sent: Tuesday, October 08, 2013 = 6:55=20 AM
Subject: [LML] Cabin door strut = on IV=20 series

Hi all,

I have to say that my = first=20 attendance to a LOBO fly in was awesome ( to use my children's and = their=20 children's cliche).  The chance to meet so many enthusiastic,=20 knowledgeable and fun Lancair folks provided WAY more benefit than I = ever=20 would have imagined.  Thank you to the board, the vendors, = presenters and=20 to everyone involved.  I loved it and so did my wife, Anne. =  

I saw some folks = examining a IVP=20 door strut on Saturday I think.  The attachment at the frame was = very=20 loose so that the ball stud was flopping around.  Close = inspection showed=20 that the door frame was cracked under the stud.  I'm not sure = whose plane=20 this was but I think it is the one that vibration measurement = equipment had=20 recently been attached to for studies.

The door strut triggered = memories=20 of  similar occurrence with my strut a couple of years ago prior = to first=20 flight.  I would guess the smart folks who noticed this also = figured out=20 the reason for the failure, but just in case I will share what I found = and how=20 I dealt with it.

The problem with = the door=20 strut is that the arc described by the strut during opening and = closing=20 exceeds the range of motion built into the ball stud socket on the = lower end=20 of the strut.  Therefore the door frame is wrenched back and = forth during=20 door operation when the stud is attached to the door frame without=20 modification to the frame.  There is a plane you can find by=20 experimentation or by mathematical exercise if you are so gifted and = inclined=20 to pursue (I am not) that will allow the socket to move within the = design=20 limits and therefore not stress the stud and the door frame. =  Once this=20 plane is determined, you can use a small washer of wood, foam or other = material to shape the door frame where the stud penetrates the frame.=20  You'll need to cut out a bit of the frame to accomplish this.=20  since my frame was broken here it made that part simple. =  Super=20 glue or hot glue can hold the form in place.  Then lay up two BID = of=20 carbon fibre cloth over the form and remove the form material when = done.=20  Lay up several layers on the back side to strengthen the mod and = to=20 secure it by sandwiching on both sides of remaining = frame. 

It=20 gets a little more complicated because the back side in my case was in = very=20 tight quarters. When complete I found that the screw stud on the ball = stud=20 part was too short.  I was able to go online and find a = replacement at=20 very nominal cost and that had plenty of thread length for the=20 purpose.

I have uploaded a = video to=20 YouTube of the way the attachment looks now.  See link below. =  I=20 hope it helps someone.

http://youtu.be/d3sBMgVncMM

John Barrett
N31VP

Sent from my iPad

------=_NextPart_000_01E6_01CEC400.8E1EA460--