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Thanks all! Since these are only AN3 bolts, I guess the head really isn’t that big. 1-2 layers of fiberfrax seems to be all they take up and it’s a fairly small area. I have the holes drilled and everything seems to line up, so I just need to pot them in and I’m good to go. I’m at a little bit more than the required 3/8” compression at full gear extension because I didn’t want to go short, but that shouldn’t matter. Also, I checked my gas strut and it seems like it is still good after about 12 years. I need to put a significant portion of my body weight into it to get it to compress and I definitely weigh more than 100 lbs. Unfortunately, as soon as I put some weight on my ESCO nose gear strut, it dumped oil like a sieve. As soon as I finish the nose gear attachments, I guess I’ll have to send it out for service. And, of course, all of this needs to be checked again at final assembly. Thanks, -Rob From: Lancair Mailing List [mailto:lml@lancaironline.net] On Behalf Of Elliott Rowan
Sent: Tuesday, November 29, 2011 12:23 PM
To: lml@lancaironline.net
Subject: [LML] Re: LNC2 Nose gear gas strut There is plenty of thickness in the fiberfrax to pot the bolts in, and not interfere with the stainless. I had to relieve the aft two layers on mine. Make sure to check the pressure on the cylinder before final install. That top bolt is a real pain to get to. Mine is weak, (it's only twenty years old) and will be replaced before final assembly. If memory serves, it is a 100 lb cylinder. From: "Sky2high@aol.com" <Sky2high@aol.com>
To: lml@lancaironline.net
Sent: Monday, November 28, 2011 3:51 PM
Subject: [LML] Re: LNC2 Nose gear gas strut Check the uncompressed thickness of the three layers of fiberfrax (ceramic fireproofing between the SS and the firewall - it may be thick enough to merely cut some out where the bolt heads are located. Also, slight countersinking of the bolt head makes for better potting (more secure). I'm at the point where I'm ready to attach my gas strut to the nose gear
strut on my 360. The manual states that the preferred way is to pot the two
bolts into the firewall and cover with 1 BID. This sounds easy enough, but,
from what I can tell, the firewall won't be flat any more at this area.
These are bolts, so they can't really be countersunk. There is an alternate
connection method which is to go through the stainless and be on the other
side of the firewall. This doesn't sound as nice as the first method.
Someone else mentioned to me about connecting the gas strut to the top of
the wheel well, but I'm concerned about this changing the angle and force.
It looks like this would physically fit if I shim it with some phenolic.
Does anyone remember what they did to connect their gas strut? Does it
matter if the firewall is no longer flat?
Thanks,
-Rob
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