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Rob,
There is plenty of thickness in the fiberfrax to pot the bolts in, and not interfere with the stainless. I had to relieve the aft two layers on mine. Make sure to check the pressure on the cylinder before final install. That top bolt is a real pain to get to. Mine is weak, (it's only twenty years old) and will be replaced before final assembly. If memory serves, it is a 100 lb cylinder.
Elliott Rowan
From: "Sky2high@aol.com" <Sky2high@aol.com>
To: lml@lancaironline.net
Sent: Monday, November 28, 2011 3:51 PM
Subject: [LML] Re: LNC2 Nose gear gas strut
Rob,
Check the uncompressed thickness of the three layers of fiberfrax (ceramic fireproofing between the SS and the firewall - it may be thick enough to merely cut some out where the bolt heads are located. Also, slight countersinking of the bolt head makes for better potting (more secure).
Scott Krueger
In a message dated 11/28/2011 9:53:33 A.M. Central Standard Time, rob@robmurawski.com writes:
I'm at the point where I'm ready to attach my gas strut to the nose gear
strut on my 360. The manual states that the preferred way is to pot the two
bolts into the firewall and cover with 1 BID. This sounds easy enough, but,
from what I can tell, the firewall won't be flat any more at this area.
These are bolts, so they can't really be countersunk. There is an alternate
connection method which is to go through the stainless and be on the other
side of the firewall. This doesn't sound as nice as the first method.
Someone else mentioned to me about connecting the gas strut to the top of
the wheel well, but I'm concerned about this changing the angle and force.
It looks like this would physically fit if I shim it with some phenolic.
Does anyone
remember what they did to connect their gas strut? Does it
matter if the firewall is no longer flat?
Thanks,
-Rob
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