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Date: Sun, 20 Nov 2011 09:48:12 -0500
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From: "Tom" <Tom@wellswoodturning.com>
Subject: Window Bonding
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I installed two windows in my ES with Hysol 9394. I followed the
instructions
explicitly and after cure (14 days)there were no air gaps or voids in the
bond
area. As I was removing the clamps after cure that held the window in place
I
noticed small areas near where I pushed on the fasteners debonded. By
pushing
on the fiberglass around the window from the inside I could see the Hysol
debond
from the plexi glass. I ended up removing both windows by debonding them
using
this method.

I had been using Hysol 9394 as that at one point in time was the Hysol being
sold by Lancair. After reviewing the spec sheets of Hysol 9360 vs 9394 the
major difference noted was the peel strength of the 9394 (5 Lb/in) vs the
9360
(50 Lb/in) per the data sheets. I did a crude test using 9394 and 9360
bonding
a piece of prexiglass to a piece of fiberglass and allowing it to cure for
14
days. I found that the plexiglass could be removed from both simply by
flexing
the fiberglass although the 9360 seemed to be slightly better bond.
So...before
I bond these windows in again I would like to be sure of what to use. Has
anyone else experienced this phenomenon?

The supplier of the Lancair windows uses MIL-S-8802 to bond windows to
aluminum
and indicated they thought some builders had used it to bond windows to
fiberglass. They also indicated they used Weld-on 40 to bond fiberglass to
the
edge of the windows with good results.

Any insight on this would be greatly appreciated.

Blue Skies,

Tom