X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com Return-Path: Sender: To: lml@lancaironline.net Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2011 12:36:43 -0400 Message-ID: X-Original-Return-Path: Received: from elasmtp-mealy.atl.sa.earthlink.net ([209.86.89.69] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 5.4.1) with ESMTP id 5138964 for lml@lancaironline.net; Wed, 28 Sep 2011 09:15:30 -0400 Received-SPF: none receiver=logan.com; client-ip=209.86.89.69; envelope-from=panelmaker@earthlink.net DomainKey-Signature: a=rsa-sha1; q=dns; c=nofws; s=dk20050327; d=earthlink.net; b=SJX/8yZ4wqifUFAQZyXSMGA3Sjr5X6fFSrtQrvPcff8raw+UBV4S67bwk4IOyzn0; h=Received:From:To:References:Subject:Date:Message-ID:MIME-Version:Content-Type:X-Mailer:X-MimeOLE:In-Reply-To:Thread-Index:X-ELNK-Trace:X-Originating-IP; Received: from [209.173.71.40] (helo=COMPUTER1) by elasmtp-mealy.atl.sa.earthlink.net with esmtpa (Exim 4.67) (envelope-from ) id 1R8tyQ-0007bm-80 for lml@lancaironline.net; Wed, 28 Sep 2011 09:14:54 -0400 From: "Jim Nordin" X-Original-To: "'Lancair Mailing List'" References: Subject: Painting guidance X-Original-Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2011 08:15:36 -0500 X-Original-Message-ID: <94D1742CAF214F1C9B2C6FEB6E6CB304@COMPUTER1> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0039_01CC7DB6.CD3452E0" X-Mailer: Microsoft Office Outlook 11 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2900.6109 In-Reply-To: Thread-Index: Acx91MnalxD1A9CTQaKSGDNwfQ8HWAAC8V8g X-ELNK-Trace: bdfc62829fd2a80cc8ad50643b1069f8239a348a220c260926cb4506aad9a398c73ac7074efe463fa7ce0e8f8d31aa3f350badd9bab72f9c350badd9bab72f9c X-Originating-IP: 209.173.71.40 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0039_01CC7DB6.CD3452E0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit This is good advice from Chris. Follow the instructions of the manufacturer and you'll have as good a product as possible. Jim _____ From: Lancair Mailing List [mailto:lml@lancaironline.net] On Behalf Of Chris Zavatson Sent: Wednesday, September 28, 2011 6:50 AM To: lml@lancaironline.net Subject: [LML] Re: Painting guidance Jim, et al, Some primers and paints cannot be sanded prior to top coating. I used a non-sanding primer, for example. It was only used for adhesion and is very thin. It rolls up like roller bearings if you try to sand it. Also, pearlescent color coats can't be sanded prior to clear coating. Doing so ruins the pearlescent look. I would suggest reading all instructions and trying out any new technique prior to painting the actual airplane parts. Chris Chris Zavatson N91CZ 360std www.N91CZ.net From: Jim Nordin To: lml@lancaironline.net Sent: Tuesday, September 27, 2011 12:12 PM Subject: [LML] Painting guidance I made a rotisserie for the wings (sent a picture to the LML). The wings were painted in one fell swoop. After the primer there was the UV protector, then white, white, white, pearl, pearl, pearl, clear, clear. The white through the clear was made in one sitting with the rotisserie. You can do the same for the fuselage if you want only one color. Otherwise, there'll be several sessions of painting. Hung all parts horizontal. The edges will buildup paint to make a lip and there's not much you can do about it. I think it's a physics problem. Nevertheless, you can remove that lip of paint from the edges if it's done carefully. Make sure the edges are sanded flush of primer. Then when you add paint, the only lip will be paint. You can sand that "flush" like the primer. Then clear then sand flush. But every layer has to be sanded flush at the edges before the next change layer is made. Make sense? I did not do this process and suffer from the little lip in fear of sanding off the clear, pearl, white down to the primer. Jim From: Lancair Mailing List [mailto:lml@lancaironline.net] On Behalf Of Chris Zavatson Sent: Tuesday, September 27, 2011 9:41 AM To: lml@lancaironline.net Subject: [LML] Re: Painting guidance Angier, I hung or supported every part such that I could paint all of its surfaces at one time. Vertical surfaces are certainly more difficult in that you can't afford to go too heavy in any one coat. Once it runs, it is all over. Spray all your test panels vertically for practice. The build up along the edges sounds like the material is going on too heavy. Reworking edges and corners after the fact is very risky. It is very easy to break through all the way down to primer. It is best to practice putting the paint down the way you want it and avoid post-painting fixes. good luck, Chris Chris Zavatson N91CZ 360std www.N91CZ.net From: "Greenbacks, UnLtd." To: lml@lancaironline.net Sent: Tuesday, September 27, 2011 6:12 AM Subject: [LML] Re: Painting guidance I could use a few tips from those of you with painting experience. Do you get a better result when spraying control surfaces by laying them flat or by hanging them vertically? I tried spraying a couple of test panels and in my case, flat seems to be best. But I'm getting a slight build up of material (several mils) along edges. Is this typical and do you just clean up edges and polish when the part is done? Thanks, Angier Ames N4ZQ -- For archives and unsub http://mail.lancaironline.net:81/lists/lml/List.html ------=_NextPart_000_0039_01CC7DB6.CD3452E0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

This is good advice from Chris. = Follow the instructions of the manufacturer and you’ll have as good a product = as possible.

Jim

 

From: = Lancair Mailing List [mailto:lml@lancaironline.net] On Behalf Of Chris Zavatson
Sent: Wednesday, = September 28, 2011 6:50 AM
To: = lml@lancaironline.net
Subject: [LML] Re: = Painting guidance

 

Jim, et al,

Some primers and paints cannot be sanded prior to top coating.  I used a non-sanding primer, for example.  It was only used for adhesion and = is very thin.  It rolls up like roller bearings if you try to sand = it.  Also, pearlescent color coats can't be sanded prior to clear coating.  Doing so ruins = the pearlescent = look.

I would suggest reading all instructions and trying out any new technique prior = to painting the actual airplane parts.

Chris

 

Chris Zavatson

N91CZ

360std

 

From: Jim Nordin <panelmaker@earthlink.net>
To: = lml@lancaironline.net
Sent: Tuesday, September = 27, 2011 12:12 PM
Subject: [LML] Painting = guidance

I made a rotisserie for the wings (sent a picture to the = LML). The wings were painted in one fell swoop. After the primer there was the UV protector, then white, white, white, pearl, pearl, pearl, clear, clear. = The white through the clear was made in one sitting with the rotisserie. You = can do the same for the fuselage if you want only one color. Otherwise, = there’ll be several sessions of painting.

Hung all parts horizontal. The edges will buildup paint to = make a lip and there’s not much you can do about it. I think it’s a = physics problem. Nevertheless, you can remove that lip of paint from the edges if = it’s done carefully. Make sure the edges are sanded flush of primer. Then when you = add paint, the only lip will be paint. You can sand that “flush” = like the primer. Then clear then sand flush. But every layer has to be sanded flush at = the edges before the next change layer is made. Make sense? I did not do this = process and suffer from the little lip in fear of sanding off the clear, pearl, = white down to the primer.
Jim

 

From: Lancair = Mailing List [mailto:lml@lancaironline.net] On = Behalf Of Chris Zavatson
Sent: Tuesday, September = 27, 2011 9:41 AM
To: = lml@lancaironline.net
Subject: [LML] Re: = Painting guidance

 

Angier,<= /p>

I hung or supported every part such that I could paint all of its surfaces at one time.  Vertical surfaces are certainly = more difficult in that you can't afford to go too heavy in any one = coat. Once it runs, it is all over.  Spray all your test panels vertically for = practice.  The build up along the edges sounds like the material is going on too heavy.  = Reworking edges and corners after the fact is very risky.  It is very easy to = break through all the way down to primer.  It is best to practice putting = the paint down the way you want it and avoid post-painting = fixes.

good luck,

Chris 

Chris Zavatson

N91CZ

360std

 

From: "Greenbacks, UnLtd." <N4ZQ@VERIZON.NET>
To: = lml@lancaironline.net
Sent: Tuesday, September = 27, 2011 6:12 AM
Subject: [LML] Re: = Painting guidance
I could = use a few tips from those of you with painting experience.
Do you get a better result when spraying control surfaces by laying them = flat or by hanging them vertically?
I tried spraying a couple of test panels and in my case, flat seems to = be best. But I'm getting a slight build up of material (several mils) along = edges.
Is this typical and do you just clean up edges and polish when the part = is done?
Thanks,
Angier Ames
N4ZQ


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