X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com Return-Path: Sender: To: lml@lancaironline.net Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2011 11:10:04 -0500 Message-ID: X-Original-Return-Path: Received: from nm21-vm0.bullet.mail.ac4.yahoo.com ([98.139.53.216] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 5.4c2o) with SMTP id 4880554 for lml@lancaironline.net; Wed, 23 Feb 2011 20:49:43 -0500 Received-SPF: none receiver=logan.com; client-ip=98.139.53.216; envelope-from=donaldgordon@bellsouth.net Received: from [98.139.52.197] by nm21.bullet.mail.ac4.yahoo.com with NNFMP; 24 Feb 2011 01:49:09 -0000 Received: from [98.139.52.177] by tm10.bullet.mail.ac4.yahoo.com with NNFMP; 24 Feb 2011 01:49:09 -0000 Received: from [127.0.0.1] by omp1060.mail.ac4.yahoo.com with NNFMP; 24 Feb 2011 01:49:09 -0000 X-Yahoo-Newman-Id: 826702.65979.bm@omp1060.mail.ac4.yahoo.com Received: (qmail 9859 invoked from network); 24 Feb 2011 01:49:09 -0000 Received: from BLUESKY (donaldgordon@98.85.224.240 with login) by smtp102.sbc.mail.ac4.yahoo.com with SMTP; 23 Feb 2011 17:49:09 -0800 PST X-Yahoo-SMTP: c.lEXFWswBCvgSVMJkTv6QMx90UyaRp2LlYBswHjRS_MKllxy0_1 X-YMail-OSG: J0uWdBAVM1l3OGbLei2F4tS8PUJzOLf4Gs.WV..hOuPqXFZ Lni4enDehBPKs0NWvYom2ToTHyE8iZT54ineqO1BU.IoEGh9dXuS2yUlxRjt YaS9SjPTtMQ1JZlCYVKlBzrvIq1JbOSbAAH3agdGQAh0KtXPnSTQBPi2NZaw 7t.YR878dMnpYGgbhBkhOUzfjWVeTdGIYffUJcy.UzrdI4AFVzkGemF7uWz2 S X-Yahoo-Newman-Property: ymail-3 From: "Don Gordon" X-Original-To: "'Lancair Mailing List'" References: In-Reply-To: Subject: RE: [LML] [LNC2] Mistake fixing advice--control sticks X-Original-Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2011 20:49:03 -0500 X-Original-Message-ID: <005f01cbd3c5$0658ebe0$130ac3a0$@bellsouth.net> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook 14.0 Thread-Index: AQFrMM2DOAWcqXW7ZVoS/s4BDb0BzJTRIl9g Content-Language: en-us Rob, >> 1) I could sand the phenolic blocks down a bit until the stick attachment fits. This would put my stick about 1/8" lower and about 1/8" more foreword than standard--Not sure if this would affect the connection to ?>> the aileron idler arm. (I imagine it would) I had similar problems. I had to make a pretty significant relief on the outside radius of the phenolic block mount points to get proper stick movement fore and aft. Unless someone else has gotten the fast-build installation of the phenolic blocks to work, I think the factory template is incorrect and will not fit the stick geometry movement. I would keep the existing phenolic blocks. If your off by 1/8" I can't imagine that would have that much effect on the layout. However, the biggest issue I had was making absolutely sure the aileron pushrod in the aluminum tube running through the wing tank is positioned precisely so there is no binding. My installation did not allow for much variance and I had to spend a lot of time playing with rigging to make sure the pushrod did not contact the aluminum tube. >> Also, as a weird aside, I see they mention using AN4-21 bolts to connect the actual stick to the control stick bracket, but the parts list for my kit shows only 1 AN4-21 bolt included in the hardware kit. The AN4-21 >> looks like the right size, too, but why was only one included? Did I misread the drawing and it should be a different bolt? During the lifecycle of building, I found myself purchasing quite a bit of new hardware for nuts/bolts/washers (and especially AN fittings) that were either the wrong size or missing. There might be enough variability in the building process that factory hardware will not always suffice for your environment. Overall, the hardware is cheap and just bite the bullet and buy with what you need (plus spare hardware, you will need them). Remember to following accepted aircraft standards for washers, bolt head vs. nut position, and number of threads showing after you tighten the nut with washer. Often, you won't have enough threads sticking out and you will need a longer bolt. Bolts that protrude too far out from the nut should also raise concern especially in the nose gear and main gear wheel wells were they could interfere with moving parts. As I often tell other builders, the LNC2 kit is like a sculpture rather than an erector set assembly. You can't just snap them together and be done with it. You have to massage and persuade the parts to fit together like an artist molding a clay model. Lots of rework is always involved unfortunately. On top of that, plan for disappointing mistakes caused by self-inflicted brain to hand interface problems. That's why they say when you build an amateur built aircraft, your building one and a half aircraft when accounting for all the mistakes you have to repair. Argggh! Don LNC2 - 1600 hours