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Date: Tue, 06 Jul 2010 19:00:30 -0400
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From: Sky2high@aol.com
Subject: Re: [LML] Re: Partial Built 320
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Rob,
 
You and Bill have listed great things to look at and/or consider adjusting  
after purchase.  There may be a couple more:
 
1. Using the water level and the aircraft pitch level, measure the angle of 
 incidence of the horizontal (-.5 to -1 degree).
 
2. Using the water level and the aircraft laterally level (to the line  
inscribed on the wingtip ribs), check the fuselage flap filets at the trailing  
edge.  if these are not level, the wing TE (and thus the chord) may  not be 
equal from side to side since that filet tip was (is) used to build the  
flaps and ailerons.
 
Scott Krueger
 
 
In a message dated 7/6/2010 3:05:05 P.M. Central Daylight Time,  
rwolf99@aol.com writes:

If possible, you might consider checking the alignment of the wings and  
tail.  It doesn't take that long if the wings are attached.
 
Wings -- For a fast-build 320 there should be a pencil line scribed on  the 
wingtip rib.  If the wingtip is attached you won't be able to do  this.  
Put a digital level on the pencil lines and make sure that they  are both at 
the same angle.  The plane need not be leveled for this, but  the wings need 
to be attached.  If the bottom skins are not on the wings,  you can adjust 
this when you close them.
 
Horizontal Tail -- I think you need to get the plane level for this, at  
least wings level.  Nose up or down doesn't matter.  Use a water  level (long 
vinyl tubing from Home Depot with water in it) to make sure the  wingtips 
are at the same height, i.e., wings level.  Then use the water  level to make 
sure the horizontal tail tips are at the same height as each  other.  This 
ensures that the wings and tail are parallel to each  other.  Less important 
is that the tail is "square" with respect to the  wing.  Run a steel tape 
measure from the wingtip to the tail tip.   Ensure that this distance is the 
same on both sides.
 
Vertical tail -- This one is hard to measure and most Lancairs, I  suspect, 
have a bit of a twist.  It does not seem to be a problem and can  be fixed 
later.  But a quick check would be to have the wings level and  run a 
plumb-bob from the top of the tail to the floor.  There will be a  tiny hole in 
the fuselage a few inches forward of the aft end.  Run your  plumb-bob string 
thru that and get another mark on the floor.  Use the  plumb-bob on the 
center of the firewall (as close as you can get it).   Take the string and see 
if the dots line up.
 
Note that I didn't say anything about the fuselage.  The flying  surfaces 
need to be aligned to each other but the fuselage can be cockeyed and  it 
won't really matter.
 
By the way, if the horizontal tail is not attached and you have a small  
tail, my recommendation (yes, an opinion) is to get rid of it and get a big  
tail (it's the same as the Legacy tail).  The handling qualities are more  
forgiving with the larger tail, and this has been documented by experienced  
test pilots (look at EAA Chapter 1000 website) and the Australian FAA  
(whatever they call themselves).  You can certainly learn to adapt to the  small 
tail, and those that have the small tails are happy with them, but if  you 
have a choice I think it would be silly to use the small one.  But as  you can 
tell, there is a wide variety of opinion on this and I have very  little 
hands-on experience in this area.  From what I've heard, I would  not cut off 
a small tail and replace it with a big one, but I wouldn't put on  a small 
one today.
 
As far as other kit comments are concerned, Bill Hallerson gave a pretty  
good list.  As far as a "winter project" is concerned, I think you're  
looking at about 1000 hours hands-on to finish this kit.
 
- Rob Wolf


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<DIV>Rob,</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>You and Bill have listed great things to look at and/or consider adju=
sting=20
after purchase.&nbsp;&nbsp;There&nbsp;may be&nbsp;a couple more:</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>1. Using the water level and the aircraft pitch level, measure the an=
gle of=20
incidence of the horizontal (-.5 to -1 degree).</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>2. Using the water level and the aircraft laterally level (to the lin=
e=20
inscribed on the wingtip ribs), check the fuselage flap filets at the trai=
ling=20
edge.&nbsp; if these are not level, the wing TE (and thus the chord)&nbsp;=
may=20
not be equal from side to side since that filet tip was (is) used to build=
 the=20
flaps and ailerons.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Scott Krueger</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV>In a message dated 7/6/2010 3:05:05 P.M. Central Daylight Time,=20
rwolf99@aol.com writes:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE  style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: blue 2px solid; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARG=
IN-LEFT: 5px"><FONT    style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" color=3D#00=
0000 size=3D2 face=3DArial><FONT    color=3Dblack size=3D2 face=3Darial>
  <DIV>If possible, you might consider checking the alignment of the wings=
 and=20
  tail.&nbsp; It doesn't take that long if the wings are attached.</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>Wings -- For a fast-build 320 there should be a pencil line scribed=
 on=20
  the wingtip rib.&nbsp; If the wingtip is attached you won't be able to=
 do=20
  this.&nbsp; Put a digital level on the pencil lines and make sure that=
 they=20
  are both at the same angle.&nbsp; The plane need not be leveled for this=
, but=20
  the wings need to be attached.&nbsp; If the bottom skins are not on the=
 wings,=20
  you can adjust this when you close them.</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>Horizontal Tail -- I think you need to get the plane level for this=
, at=20
  least wings level.&nbsp; Nose up or down doesn't matter.&nbsp; Use a wat=
er=20
  level (long vinyl tubing from Home Depot with water in it) to make sure=
 the=20
  wingtips are at the same height, i.e., wings level.&nbsp; Then use the=
 water=20
  level to make sure the horizontal tail tips are at the same height as ea=
ch=20
  other.&nbsp; This ensures that the wings and tail are parallel to each=
=20
  other.&nbsp; Less important is that the tail is "square" with respect to=
 the=20
  wing.&nbsp; Run a steel tape measure from the wingtip to the tail tip.&n=
bsp;=20
  Ensure that this distance is the same on both sides.</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>Vertical tail -- This one is hard to measure and most Lancairs, I=
=20
  suspect, have a bit of a twist.&nbsp; It does not seem to be a problem=
 and can=20
  be fixed later.&nbsp; But a quick check would be to have the wings level=
 and=20
  run a plumb-bob from the top of the tail to the floor.&nbsp; There will=
 be a=20
  tiny hole in the fuselage a few inches forward of the aft end.&nbsp; Run=
 your=20
  plumb-bob string thru that and get another mark on the floor.&nbsp; Use=
 the=20
  plumb-bob on the center of the firewall (as close as you can get it).&nb=
sp;=20
  Take the string and see if the dots line up.</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>Note that I didn't say anything about the fuselage.&nbsp; The flyin=
g=20
  surfaces need to be aligned to each other but the fuselage can be cockey=
ed and=20
  it won't really matter.</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>By the way, if the horizontal tail is not attached and you have a=
 small=20
  tail, my recommendation (yes, an opinion) is to get rid of it and get a=
 big=20
  tail (it's the same as the Legacy tail).&nbsp; The handling qualities ar=
e more=20
  forgiving with the larger tail, and this has been documented by experien=
ced=20
  test pilots (look at EAA Chapter 1000 website) and the Australian FAA=20
  (whatever they call themselves).&nbsp; You can certainly learn to adapt=
 to the=20
  small tail, and those that have the small tails are happy with them, but=
 if=20
  you have a choice I think it would be silly to use the small one.&nbsp;=
 But as=20
  you can tell, there is a wide variety of opinion on this and I have very=
=20
  little hands-on experience in this area.&nbsp; From what I've heard, I=
 would=20
  not cut off a small tail and replace it with a big one, but I wouldn't=
 put on=20
  a small one today.</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>As far as other kit comments are concerned, Bill Hallerson gave a=
 pretty=20
  good list.&nbsp; As far as a "winter project" is concerned, I think you'=
re=20
  looking at about 1000 hours hands-on to finish this kit.</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>- Rob Wolf</DIV></FONT></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV></FONT></BODY></HT=
ML>

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