I’m
confused, doesn’t your dump valve dump the up side pressure. On our Glasair’s the dump valve does just that. It dumps the
up pressure back to the reservoir.
-----Original Message-----
From: Lancair Mailing List
[mailto:lml@lancaironline.net] On Behalf Of Larry
Henney
Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010
1:41 PM
To: lml@lancaironline.net
Subject: [LML] FW: [LML] gear
retract problems - 320
John,
In 920 hours I've seen
this particular hiccup only once. It was exactly as described by
Randy (hot day after landing on a cool night). Although a
"real" dump valve is a super fix, another get home road
alternative is to open the dump valve and short across the down switch
momentarily. This pump chirp bumps off the back side pressure (by virtue
of engaging the motor).
Some folks have little
secret switches for bypassing the pressure switches but I've only seen this
problem once in 920 hours. Alternatively, dumping the pressure and
reclosing the valve upon shut down is 99% affective, too.
Larry Henney
N360LH
Spry Debongers (850 hours
trouble free!)
From: randy
snarr [mailto:randylsnarr@yahoo.com]
Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 4:39
PM
To: lml@lancaironline.net
Subject: Re: [LML] gear retract
problems - 320
John,
This has gone around several times.
The dump valve you have is really a pressure equalization valve.
A true dump valve will dump the pressure to 0. I will explain.
This has happened to me as well. I installed hydraulic gauges which tells the
story. When you pull the airplane out of a cool hangar into the warm sun, the
system heats up and pressure on both the high and low sides increase pretty
much equally. Example: my high pressure (gear up) side may start at 0 and the
low side ( gear down) at 500 when in the cool hangar.Pull it into the sun for
30 minutes and both will increase say 700 psi. No kidding! That puts the high
at 700 and the low at 1200. If the increase of the system hits 900 or so (
low now at 1400 high at 900) you have hit the gear up limit
pressure switch which tells the system (if it were in transit) to stop
raising the gear. In your case, when you try to retract the gear the upper
limit just keeps the pump from starting as it thinks the gear is already up
because the upper limit has already been hit. In our systems, both sides are
closed meaning neither vents to the resevoir when the pump is not running.
This changes when the pump is running. If you increase the pressure enough on
both sides (again with heat) while on the ground the the pressure on the high
side will eventually open the upper limit pressure switch. and the gear will
not retract. Sometimes opening the dump valve will help as it equalizes the
pressure on both sides. If this equalization results in the high side dropping
below the high side limit (appx. 900 psi), the gear will retract. It the
equalization does not result in this it will not, thus you have to climb out
and crack a fitting somewhere releasing the heat induced pressure increase in
the system.
This happened a few times for me and I think I am more suseptable to it as I
used small hot rod stainless braid hydraulic lines instead of the factory
rubber stuff. I think the factory stuff although much heaver has some
flexibity allowing it to balloon a little limiting the heat induce pressure
increase. I solved this by replacing the dump valve that does more than
connect the high and low pressure sides. Mine does that but it has an extra
line that not only connects the high and low pressure sides equalizing pressure
on each side, it also dumps the pressure to 0 with a low pressure return line
to the resevoir. If you had my dump valve and low pressure return line, you
would have been able to retract the gear by cracking the dump valve and
closing it again as you would truely have dumped pressure not just equalized
pressure.
I have heard of some doing a bypass on the pressure switch to momentarily get
the gear pump to move, for me I like my set up which is similar to the
Legacy. I like the idea of being able to release all pressure from the
system, not only to solve the issue describe here but to ensure I can always get the wheels down without
power as there is no way to keep the gear up if you vent the pressure to 0.
FWIW...
Randy Snarr
N694RS
235/320
--- On Tue, 4/6/10, John Spry <spry@paradise.net.nz>
wrote:
From: John Spry <spry@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: [LML] gear retract problems - 320
To: lml@lancaironline.net
Date: Tuesday, April 6, 2010, 5:59 AM
My 320 gear did not activate when I selected gear up
yesterday - I checked the circuit breaker, opened and closed the dump valve,
selected gear down, then up - all to no avail and then landed.
I recalled some discussion years ago about this issue and
a temporary fix being the "cracking" of the hydraulic pressure to
get the system going again - this I did and it worked !
Can someone help me with identifying the actual cause and
permanent fix.
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