Return-Path: Received: from marvkaye.olsusa.com ([205.245.9.244]) by truman.olsusa.com (Post.Office MTA v3.1.2 release (PO203-101c) ID# 0-44819U2500L250S0) with SMTP id AAA19428 for ; Wed, 16 Sep 1998 00:15:44 -0400 Message-Id: <3.0.3.32.19980916001437.00700ad8@olsusa.com> Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 00:14:37 -0400 To: lancair.list@olsusa.com From: Marvin Kaye Subject: Re: L-IV elevator trim tab X-Mailing-List: lancair.list@olsusa.com Mime-Version: 1.0 <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> << Lancair Builders' Mail List >> <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >> Richard Swain wrote: >>>>> Hello, I'm Richard Swain and am in the process of building a Lancair IV. Presently working on the elevators. It has been suggested to me that instead of riveting the piano hinge that I may want to bolt it on. Sounds like a good idea to me,. for future replacemnet if necessary. Any sugestions as to what size bolts? <<<<< If you're really intent on using screws to mount your trim tab hinges you'd probably do best with MS24693C26 (SS 6-32x3/8, I _think_ 3/8 will do the job ) and MK1000-06 mini-nutplates. You should have adequate skin thickness once you build up the interior to make the hinge knuckles flush with the outside surface to get decent countersinks, and using SS screws will keep things looking good after being out in the elements for awhile. I used the rivet method to install my trim tab hinges and it worked out just fine. Considering the relatively small movement of the trim tab I can't imagine that the hinges will wear out any time soon, so for my way of thinking worrying about having to replace them doesn't enter into the picture. The neatest method I've seen (and intend to use on my other trim tabs) for installing those hinges is to bond them in, a process which I believe is outlined in some detail in the L-IV Fast Packs. No fasteners to fiddle with, and a very clean and solid installation when done properly. Basically, a series of varied sized holes are drilled along each hinge blade to allow the potting material to flow through and provide additional mechanical fastening strength, (Hysol/flox works best) and then the entire blade is covered with a standard 2-BID layup, overlapping the hinge blades right up to the knuckles and onto the inner skins by an inch. If I've left anything out I'm sure one of our other L-IV builders can fill in the blanks. I hope this helps you out.